LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Tapestry Buttress

  • 11 - The Turin Shroud

    Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

  • 11.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the extreme right edge of the broad terrace, climb the groove/corner (currently some ivy in) to a small ledge below an arched overhang (in-situ peg belay).

  • 11.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the crack to the overhang and traverse right, then pull over on to a short headwall. Belay to a tree further back.

  • 12 - The Malacia Tapestry

    Grade: 5b,5c,5c | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 0

    Start at a bolt belay at the left-hand end of the broad terrace.

  • 12.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Move left to an obvious groove and follow this past a bulge to a small stance (nut belay).

  • 12.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Traverse easily right to a perched block at the foot of a steep wall. Climb this on small holds, then trend right to below an overhang, pull round (peg on left) to a superb jug, then move right (crux) to a `porthole`. Climb up to a horizontal break and hand-traverse left (peg – hard to clip) to a ledge around the arête. Large nut belay.

  • 12.2a - Pitch 3

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Continue straight up to the bulge, level with the large roofs on the left, then traverse right along the break to the peg below the superb jug. Easier than the original pitch, but the crux is still to come.

  • 12.3 - Pitch 4

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Step right and climb a short wall to the top.

  • 13 - Torn Curtain

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 0

    Start about 20 metres farther left, at a higher level below the left side of the long roof. Climb delicately to the ledge, then pull over an overhang into the long flake which is followed strenuously to the top. Abseil descent.