LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Undercut Buttress

  • 1 - Descent Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Traditional)
    Rating: 0

    About eight metres to the left of Scarfoot Chimney an easy scramble at the left side of a short buttress leads to the top of the crag. This provides a useful DESCENT, but care should be taken on the grassy top when it is wet.

  • 2 - Scarfoot Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    The obvious chimney with a chockstone at its top on the left of the first buttress.

  • 3 - 9 1/2 Weeks

    Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Start just left of a flake in the ground and climb past two overlaps (bolts) to enter a flake-cum-groove, then finish up this. [E4 6b]

  • 3a - Variation

    Grade: F7a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    At the bottom it is possible to move right then back left to gain the groove at a similar grade. [ 6b]

  • 4 - First Blood

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    From the right side of the flake in the ground, surmount the roof at its widest point by strenuous and gymnastic moves, to a thin crack and a good hold. Finish up the wall above past a convenient tree. [E4 6b]

  • 5 - Sylvester Strange

    Grade: F7c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    A very hard problem that surmounts the roof towards its right-hand end. It has several bolts. [E5 6c]

  • 6 - Meet the Wife

    Grade: F7b+ | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Start directly below the right extremity of the roof then trend right above the roof to gain Telegraph Road and finish up this. [E6 6b]

  • 7 - Telegraph Road

    Grade: F6c+ | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Start at the right side of the wall and climb to a bolt below a small overlap, then step left and go up into a shallow depression. Follow this trending right past a bolt on Sylvester Strange to a tree belay. Abseil descent. [E3 6b]