This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
Rating: 0
Previously incorrectly named Gimlin Groove and Grimlin Groove. The obvious grassy left-slanting break from the tree.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
Rating: 0
The pleasant rib above the tree.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
Rating: 0
From the tree move right into the main gully and ascend this over several bulges.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 1
Ascend the gully to a clean layback crack on the right, then climb this to reach a steep groove. Climb the right arête of the groove to gain an easy-angled slab, then cross this to the right to gain the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Start just right of the gully and scramble to a tree stump below an obvious broken groove, then go up this to finish up the top wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
A little to the right a sideways-growing tree arches over the path. Climb to the right of a bolt to a ledge, then continue into the grassy groove above and finish up this. For climbers who are intimidated by the groove itself, it is possible to climb up and left to a bolt belay and an abseil descent at HVS, 5b.
Grade: F6a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Start three metres farther right and climb directly through the centre of the obvious overlap, then climb rightwards until it is possible to finish up the centre of the wall above a bolt about two metres left of the crack, which is very reminiscent of The Tower of Babel` at Stoney. [E1 5b]
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1960-62/1975)
Rating: 2
The traditional classic of the crag. Remember to carry a rack. Start three metres to the right and climb past a flake at the right side of the overlap. Trend slightly left up a vague groove then traverse right to the prominent crack on the left of the tower and follow this to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
Retrobolted! A direct start to Born Again. Start one metre right and climb a blunt rib past several bolts, then finish up the top wall as for Born Again.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start up Born Free to a tape thread, then step right into Born To Run.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2
Retrobolted! The line of the crag – a central pillar that just begs to be climbed. Variety and interest of this order perhaps might even give sport climbing a good name! Start two metres right and climb directly over the roof (bolts) to bushes at the left side of a ledge. Finish up the front face of the pillar, past widely-spaced bolts.
Grade: F6a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Climb the right-hand side of a yellow flake to the right-hand side of a bushy ledge, then climb the wall above, trending slightly right. Abseil descent. [E2 5b]
Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
An awkward, strenuous route that starts two metres farther right. Climb through bulges, then up the wall above towards a sapling and a bolt on the left and a bolt belay a little higher up. Abseil descent. [E4 6b]
Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2
An excellent route up the centre of the wall. The explosive start is followed by intricate and sustained climbing. Start two metres to the right. Climb past a bolt to a jug, go up left past another bolt to gain a flat hold above (bolt), then ascend to the bolt belay on Beers for Fears. [E4 6a]
Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start immediately to the right of a short vegetated groove and climb the wall to a bulge, then pull straight over this to the belay. Abseil descent. [E4 6b]
Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start two metres to the right and climb the arête direct past a bolt to finish up the loose groove above. [E4 6a]