LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Ivy League Area

  • 23 - Kathleen

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Start below the corner with a holly in it, that rises directly above the left side of a cave. Climb awkwardly past the shallow cave to gain the stumps, move out right to gain a `porthole` then finish at a tree above. Abseil descent. Often wet.

  • 24 - Spectral Wizard

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Pull over the roof three metres right of Kathleen (unless she moves!), past a bolt, to an obvious hold, then crank up left past two bolts to the `porthole` on Kathleen. Finish at the tree above. [E4 6b]

  • 25 - Bar Six

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall between Spectral Wizard and Ivy League, to finish up the pillar right of the latter. [E5 6b]

  • 26 - Ivy League

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (Pre-1975/1975/1982)
    Rating: 2

    Retrobolted! The classic sport climb of the crag is short, but fierce. You NEED to do this route. From the right side of the shallow cave, climb up the obvious series of pockets (threads) then continue past a small overhang above to gain a small, left-trending corner. Climb this to the belay. Abseil descent.

  • 27 - A Vision of Things Gone Wild

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A very pumpy route which is nearly a classic of the crag. Start immediately right of the shallow cave. Climb a black streak then go up to the small roof. Pull over this and climb the wall above to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E5 6b]

  • 28 - Idle Times

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Retrobolted! Climb the vague groove on the right then go over a bulge to gain a small corner. Climb this to finish up the wall on the right. Abseil descent.

  • 29 - Leather Pets

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    Start at a slightly higher level and climb the right-hand edge of the wall past a bolt to reach a short crack. Step left through the bulge, then trend slightly left and continue to the belay on Idle Times. Abseil descent.

  • 30 - Stepping Out

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 1

    Climb a shallow groove just to the right of Leather Pets, then pull left on to the wall and finish up Idle Times. Abseil descent.