LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Edgar`s Arch

  • 30 - Mindfields

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 2

    Start just right of the seaward side of the arch and climb past two bolts to the roof, then follow an obvious line of pockets running up rightwards beneath the roof and across Hollow Lands, to gain the deep hole on Slightly Shoddy. Finish up this route. [E5 6b]

  • 31 - Hollow Lands

    Grade: F6c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Start beneath the landward edge of the arch and climb past an old bolt to another bolt and a peg. Move up and go left over the roof and, from the corner above, step left to a large, deep hole. Move up slightly to a two bolt belay at the top of the landward side of the arch itself. Abseil descent. [E4 6a]

  • 32 - Slightly Shoddy

    Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    Start in the corner, two metres to the right of Hollow Lands, and climb the rounded tufa pillar past a bolt to gain a deep hole above. Continue up the overhanging wall past bolts to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E4 6b]

  • 33 - The Job

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start at the landward side of the right column, immediately right of the easy way to the top and climb the short, left-leaning crack above.

  • 34 - Back into the Future

    Grade: F7c+ | First Ascent: (1977/1991)
    Rating: 2

    A fun route, which climbs down under the right side of the arch and then up its seaward face. Start just to the right of The Job and climb up to a bolt, then follow an obvious line of holds under the arch along a prominent flake crack, past three bolts to an obvious hanging flake on the lip. The crux involves using this flake to change from climbing downwards to pull back into the vertical. Bolt belay above. Abseil descent. [E7 6c]

  • 35 - Sir Edgar`s Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    The left-slanting crack, that starts at the seaward side of the right-hand column, proves entertaining. There are no belays at the top and so it is advisable for the leader to be lowered down the inside of the blowhole, whilst the second should be lowered down the seaward face. About 30 metres of rope are necessary to do this.