This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Climb Interstellar to the roof, then pull out to the left and climb the wall past bolts, avoiding the temptation to use holds on Sun God at the top. [E4 6b]
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1979/1981)
Rating: 2
Retrobolted! Although it was originally climbed traditionally, this route has now become probably the best of the lower-grade sport climbs. The difficulties increase with height and the final groove should never be under-estimated. Start at a vague groove midway between Starshine and Sun God and climb this (bolts) to the dead, rickety tree on the ledge. Use this to step right on to the wall and climb up to the roof, then move out right to the hanging groove (bolt) which leads to the top. Abseil descent.
Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 1
Connects Interstellar and Phantom Zone. Climb Interstellar to the ledge below the tree, then step right and climb rightwards to join Phantom Zone. Follow this to the left end of the roof above then surmount this. Pull rightwards into a smooth hanging groove and follow this to a bolt belay on the right. [E5 6b]
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
Good climbing up the prominent flake-line which forms the left edge of Moonchild Buttress proper. Ascend the flake strenuously to a dead tree, then continue up the bulging flake behind to the yew. Abseil descent.
Grade: F7c+ | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2
An impressive route which starts two metres right of Sun God. Follow a line of bolts, then finish up Cement Head. [E6 6c]
Grade: F7c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2
A superb, sustained, fingery climb. Start two metres left of the point where the path meets the lowest point of the crag and make an awkward start, then continue with increasing difficulty past bolts until it is possible to step left and finish up Cement Head. [E6 6b]
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
A fine route with a puzzling start. Make awkward moves to the sidepull on Phantom Zone, then swing right to a bolt and stand on the ledge above. Climb the groove above to a rest on War of the Worlds. Pull rightwards into the hanging groove above (nut) and finish up the superb crack to a bolt belay on Zantom Phone.
Grade: F8a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 1
Start immediately above the point where the path meets the crag. Climb up to an excellent sidepull, then follow the right-hand fork up a blunt arête to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E6 6c]
Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
The shallow grooveline left of Moonchild gives sustained climbing. Start directly below the grooveline of Moonchild and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue up the shallow groove and over an overlap, then climb another groove to a short flake. Climb this to a tree and either belay or, preferably, on a bolt three metres to the left. Abseil descent. [E4 6a]
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 1
Climb Moonchild to the peg, then traverse left for six metres to a groove, and go up to a resting place and a peg, Traverse left for six metres to a hollow flake, then go up to the roof, pulling right into the smooth groove to finish. Bolt belay up to the right.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 2
Start just right of a steep polished groove three metres right of the point where the path meets the crag. Climb the wall until it is possible to move awkwardly left into the groove, then move up awkwardly to a peg (bold) and rock over right to a scoop. Pull out left on superb holds, then go up right and climb the flake above to several saplings. Finish left at a yew. Abseil descent.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 2
A brilliant way to combine some of the best traditional climbing on the crag. Climb Moonchild to the bunch of saplings, then traverse right to a tree belay – junction with Lunatic. Finish like a lunatic.
Grade: 5b,5c,4b,5c | First Ascent: (1976-78/1986)
Rating: 1
A left-to-right traverse of the Moonchild Buttress that gives a scary pitch for both leader and second. Start up Starshine.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the groove to the ledge, move right to a belay at the dead tree.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move down and dash right across the wall to good holds, bolt and pegs, then go up and right to a rest and peg on War of the Worlds. Traverse delicately right to below the black bulge on Bleep and Booster. Step down and swing right to a good jug on Moonchild (peg). Move up rightwards to a tree, and climb the flake above to saplings. Belay on the yew out left to give some sort of protection for your poor second.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move out rightwards to the tree belay on Lunatic.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the open groove on Lunatic.
Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 1
Start three metres right of Moonchild and just left of a tree. Climb a short wall to a staple beneath a tiny bulge, then make difficult moves straight up past bolts to gain a good ledge. Continue straight up, then go right to a junction with Moonchild. Either finish up this (wires) or move right and finish up War Hero. [E5 6a]
Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 2
An excellent pitch on mostly superb rock. The best of the `easier` bolt routes. Start eight metres right of Moonchild, where a tree grows close to the base of the crag. Climb straight up from the tree past three bolts to a bulge (bolt). Pass this directly (slightly easier to swing left), then go up for a couple of moves until it is possible to step rightwards to gain a small ledge on Lunatic. Follow this to its belay, then continue straight up the wall left of Lunatic. [E5 6a]