LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Central Gully Area

  • 1 - Central Gully

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1973
    Rating: 0

    The gully itself gives a poor route which is best avoided.

  • 2 - Cool Your Jets Mum

    Grade: F6c | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 0

    One metre right of the gully. Climb a line passing four staples then trend rightwards to a bolt belay. [E3 6a]

  • 3 - Le Flange en Decomposition

    Grade: F6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Three metres right of the gully. Climb the shallow groove to its top, then step left, move up to a small overlap and continue straight up past bolts to a yew tree. [E2 5c]

  • 4 - Gully Wall

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! Climb the groove of Le Flange for five metres, then move right past a stump to a shallow groove and climb this past bolts to a tree.

  • 4a - Variation Start

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating:

    The tricky groove one metre right of the normal start.

  • 5 - Winter Pincher

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! Six metres right of Le Flange. Climb the shallow, hanging groove (bolts) to a tree. Abseil descent. Short and fierce.

  • 6 - Oddbods

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! Two metres right of Winter Pincher. A little groove (bolts).

  • 7 - Strongbow

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! Start just over one metre to the right and climb a hanging groove to a yew. Abseil descent.

  • 8 - Comedy Show

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! The fourth little groove, which is two metres farther right. Abseil descent from the tree.

  • 9 - The Veil

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Start behind a small tree that is situated about 10 metres to the right and three metres past an horrendous hanging gully. Go up left along a shallow ramp to a ledge, then traverse right to a blocky ledge and tree. Move up to a bush, traverse right to the rib and finish at a yew above. Climb the flake above to finish at the top.

  • 9a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    The rather pointless thin crack that leads direct to the blocky ledge.

  • 10 - Yashmak

    Grade: F6c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Three metres farther right. Climb a line past three bolts. [E3 6a]

  • 11 - The Heinous Penis

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Retrobolted! Two metres right at a white patch, climb past four bolts to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. Pretty stiff, technically, for the grade.

  • 12 - Starshine

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Three metres to the right climb the shallow groove to a ledge, then the disposable groove above leads to a yew. Abseil descent.