LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Bay

  • 1 - The Slab

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the easy-angled slab at the left side of the bay.

  • 2 - Bengal Badger

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The faint, curving groove that starts midway up the wall on the right.

  • 3 - Swallow Dive

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the deep groove in the centre of the left wall, then finish up the crack above.

  • 4 - Swallow Dive Right-hand

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    From the top of the groove of Swallow Dive, swing right (Friend 1 in horizontal break), then pull up on a series of good ledges (small wire in a horizontal slot) and follow a line of sharp, incut holds to the top.

  • 5 - Two Dead Sheep

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986-89)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the centre of the next wall past white paint marks to reach a crescent-shaped hold and thence the horizontal break (Friend 1). Bold moves then lead to a peg on the wall above, then continue to the top past two more pegs.

  • 6 - Albatross

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Start immediately right of the corner and climb up to a roof, then move leftwards to reach good footholds at the foot of a ramp. Finish up the thin, jagged, left-leading crack.

  • 6a - Shrew to a Kill

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating:

    A more direct finish from the roof.

  • 7 - Eagle

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Start as for Albatross and climb to the thin crack that splits the overhang at its highest point. Continue up a thin crack to a ledge and finish direct.

  • 8 - Red Wing

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    To the right again, a prominent crack is climbed direct.