LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Right Wall

  • 31 - Guano

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1971/1979)
    Rating: 0

    Start below the line but go rightwards into a wide groove. Go up to a bulge and step left onto the slab, then go up into the chimney which is vacated leftwards.

  • 31a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating:

    Climb straight up stepped-rock, pull over on to the slab and continue as for the parent route.

  • 32 - Phosphatic

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    An excellent route that continuously tests the leader. Follow Guano to the bulge, then go straight up to ledges and climb a shallow corner to reach a large ledge. Take the overhang on its left, then continue directly to the top. Spaced protection.

  • 33 - Grinder

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The corner on the right leads to a crack which has an awkward move to gain a ledge running across the wall. Finish as for Flying Pig.

  • 34 - Flying Pig

    Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

  • 34.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start four metres right. Follow steps up and left into a niche. Go over the bulge to move left onto a big ledge.

  • 34.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the left-hand corner to the overhang, then pull out left into a groove and hence the top.

  • 35 - Too Close for Comfort

    Grade: 5a,4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

  • 35.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb up stepped rock, right of Flying Pig. A difficult move, right of the niche, leads over a bulge. Delicately gain the ledge and belay.

  • 35.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Finish up Flying Pig, or up rightwards as for One Twin.

  • 36 - Curig`s Corner

    Grade: 4b,4c | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

  • 36.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb stepped rock to gain a corner which leads to the ledge and belays.

  • 36.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Finish as for the previous route.

  • 37 - One Twin

    Grade: 4c,- | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

  • 37.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb an overhang below a concave wall then, from ledges, follow the right side of this concavity to the ledge and nut belay.

  • 37.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb easily up to steep grass, to fence post belays.

  • 38 - Twin Two

    Grade: 4c,- | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

  • 38.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Gain the ledges below the concave wall at their right-hand end. Go up past an interestingly-shaped hole and move left to gain One Twin and the large ledge.

  • 38.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Finish as for One Twin.

  • 39 - Quadramantel

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb up to the overhang on the right and pass it on its left to gain a sloping ledge. Follow a groove system until a way right leads to a grassy slope.

  • 40 - Sleeping Partner

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 1

    Climb up and left to the groove. A difficult move leads up to gain the corner which is followed to the top.

  • 41 - Capital Offence

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 1

    Gain and then follow thin parallel cracks over a bulge. Pull up, gain a niche, then the top.

  • 42 - Tripod

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    A crack in the wall left of Endymion may be reached in three ways: via ledges on its left, direct (hardest), or from the base of the next route.

  • 43 - Endymion

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    At the right-hand end of the face is a steep groove. The arête on the right provides the route.

  • 44 - Intuitive Momentum

    Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    The crux move near the start of pitch two gives the name to this interesting and varied route that maintains its interest to the end.

  • 44.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start as for Sleeping Partner. Go up and gain the wall right of the V-shaped groove. Swing leftwards into the top of the groove, then follow the horizontal break round to join Quadramantel. Go left and up to the large ledge. Walk to its far end. Nut belay. This pitch can be started from Endymion.

  • 44.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Step round on to the face and go across to ledges (Friend above). Descend one move, then go left and enter the base of Guano`s chimney. Reverse this route to a block, then go up and leftwards to an overhanging block. Swing round and climb up left using flakes to gain heather-covered ledges. Nut belay six metres farther across the path. Take great care to protect the second man.