LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Third Bay

  • 10 - Delph

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Climb the groove on the left of the slab until a step left can be made on to the edge, then follow the edge of the slab all the way.

  • 11 - Delcross

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 1

    Start at a groove at the left side of the slab to a small triangular niche, then climb the wall directly above, crossing a small overlap near the top.

  • 12 - Dobcross

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Follow the groove as for Delcross, then climb the obvious stepped, right-leading cracks.

  • 13 - Diggle

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    An excellent route, with the crux at the bottom, after which it relents to 4b/c. Start one metre right and climb over the overlap to an obvious slot and continue to a triangular niche at four metres (common with Dobcross). Step right on to the centre of the slab and ascend a parallel line to Dobcross, to the top of the slab. Care is needed with holds near the top.

  • 13a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start some three metres right of the usual start and climb the small overhang at four metres to join the normal route two metres above the right traverse.

  • 14 - Denshaw

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 2

    The appealing cleft at the right-hand side of the slab proves to be as good as it looks, but it is difficult to protect and this can make it feel 5a. Enter the cleft and follow it awkwardly until it narrows to a series of cracks. Follow these to the top.

  • 15 - Gardeners` World

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climb the V-groove on the right, over several chockstones.

  • 16 - Rough Layback

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Three metres right is a short layback crack to the right of a fin of rock and above a small overlap. Climb this, then continue over the blocks above to the top. A start can also be made on the left of the fin at 4c.

  • 17 - Fireman`s Lift

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Immediately right is a short slab with a crack on its left side. Follow this crack through two overhangs, then step left and pull over the final overhang. Well-protected.

  • 18 - Teacher`s Pet

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Follow the crack on the right side of the slab, to the base of a short, narrow chimney with a chockstone at its top. Once over the chockstone, care is needed on the last moves.

  • 19 - Masons` Lodge

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the steep, shallow chimney two metres right, until the arĂȘte on the right can be used for the final move.

  • 20 - Oak Leaf Chimney

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    The chimney on the right side of the steep rib.

  • 21 - Half Moon

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Two metres right is a curving flake. Climb this, taking care near the top.