LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The West Face

  • 1 - Stilton

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The first arête on the wall.

  • 2 - Open Sesame

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The obvious chimney/grooves just left of the arête. Currently very dirty.

  • 3 - Little Sneak

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb cracks in the centre of the wall on the left to a niche and a mantel. Finish just left of the arête.

  • 4 - One Way Street

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The corner is climbed direct. Currently very dirty.

  • 5 - No Right Turn

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Strenuously follow the thin crack left of One Way Street.

  • 6 - Lema

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the arête with difficulty to an easier finish.

  • 6a - Saints

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating:

    From the midway break, traverse left to gain Bob the Gob and finish up this.

  • 7 - Nova

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Boulder up the centre of the steep slab and finish direct.

  • 8 - Bob the Gob

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Follow the deep groove, then the crack in the headwall.

  • 9 - Mucky Pups

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The recess on the left is climbed via a steep crack at its back.

  • 10 - Shadowfax

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Climb the arête. A bold and poorly protected eliminate line which gives sustained climbing, with a crimpy exit.

  • 11 - Rapunzle

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    The wall on the left contains a prominent feature known as the `barred window`. The rock architecture is unique and it is worth a visit, even though the lady has been rescued long ago. Climb thin cracks to gain the window, then finish up the cracks above.

  • 12 - Stacked Deck

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    Excellent, positive laybacking with holds on an expanding flake! The fine crack and flake line one metre left.

  • 13 - Updraught Corner

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The corner on the left is followed to a groove, and the top. Currently very dirty.

  • 14 - Jaundice Crack

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The wall on the left is split by two cracks. Climb the second of these.

  • 15 - Siamese Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 1

    The arête on the left.

  • 16 - Right Siamese Twin

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the straight crack immediately left of the arête.

  • 17 - Left Siamese Twin

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb over blocks to the more ragged crack in the centre of the wall, then climb this and at the top, finish up the corner on the left.

  • 18 - Slow Motion

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Take a direct line between the ragged crack and the right arête of the deep groove.

  • 19 - Siam Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Climb the deep groove to the overhang, then move right to a small hold and finish up the wall above.

  • 20 - Cracked Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The crack immediately left of the deep groove is climbed via a small pod to an overhang. Finish up the thinner continuation crack.

  • 21 - Overlooked Crack

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    From the foot of Cracked Wall move left to a crack and climb this to a ledge near the top. Step right round the arête and finish up the wall just right of the arête.

  • 22 - Troy Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the next groove to a tricky move to gain ledges at eight metres. Finish up the corner.

  • 23 - Helen of Troy

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Two metres left climb the short, shallow groove to a large ledge. Move over blocks (avoiding a loose block) and finish up the corner crack.

  • 24 - Gopher

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the flake crack on the left to a ledge, then step left into a bottomless groove and `go for` the top.

  • 25 - Golden Thread

    Grade: 4c,4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    A girdle of the West Face.

  • 25.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb Open Sesame to the obvious break, then move left across Bob the Gob and continue past Rapunzel to a belay at Updraught Corner.

  • 25.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Continue leftwards under an overhang, then finish up Gopher.