LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The South Face

  • 26 - Little `Un

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    At the right side of the small bay and in line with The West Face there is a small buttress with a distinctive grooved notch at its base. Climb the crack and arête to grassy ledges and an escape on the right.

  • 27 - Solo Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The next section is at a higher level and its left side is split by a horizontal break at half-height. Start two metres to the right of the corner and trend slightly right then go straight up. Unprotected.

  • 28 - Grand National

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the shallow corner just after the ground level starts to fall, to an easier finish.

  • 29 - Aldanite

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The crack and shallow groove on the left provide difficult climbing via a shallow, black, square-cut recess near the top.

  • 30 - Tess

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start at an embedded boulder below a blunt arête with a square-cut groove in it. Climb the crack on the left, move right into the groove and follow it to the top.

  • 31 - Rock Lobster

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    A faint crackline up the centre of the wall just left of Tess. Tenacity and a rack of small wires will enable climbers to overcome its bouldery moves and cruise to the top. A good pitch.

  • 32 - Sounder

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    Good jamming, with a real sinker at half-height. Climb the crack to the horizontal break near the top, then traverse left and finish up Questionable Stability. There are two other finishes:

  • 32a - Direct

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating:

    Straight up the headwall.

  • 32b - Right-hand

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating:

    Hand-traverse right and finish up the arête.

  • 33 - Questionable Stability

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The steep corner crack.