LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Bay One

  • 1 - Andy`s Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climbs to the big ledge and finish up the arête.

  • 2 - Nean

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb to the big ledge. The crack in the wall leads to the top.

  • 3 - Snout

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    To the right there is a nose of rock. Climb the left edge of this to a ledge, then finish up the left arête.

  • 4 - Escort

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall just right of Snout.

  • 5 - Cavalier

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Just to the right a triangular niche leads to an overhang, then go right to finish up an arête.

  • 6 - Groovin`

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    A groove containing jammed blocks.

  • 7 - Wazzock

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The wall on the right is climbed direct.

  • 8 - Retreat

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack to gain a groove with difficulty.

  • 9 - The Arête

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack as for Retreat (or direct) then move right and climb the square-cut groove on the arête.

  • 10 - Lux

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Start below the arête and climb to a ledge on the right then step left and climb direct to the arête.

  • 11 - Little Cameo

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 2

    A bold and technical upper section. Start to the right of the arête, gain the large ledge and crank up the wall above, just left of centre.

  • 12 - Fallout

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The open corner to the right of Little Cameo provides the substance of this route.

  • 13 - Central Pillar

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    The pillar is gained direct over an overhang then a narrow wall leads to the top.

  • 14 - The Apprentice`s Edge

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Takes the arête of Central Pillar on its right-hand side; fingery. Graded for an ascent with runners in Overhanging Crack.

  • 15 - Overhanging Crack

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1973
    Rating: 2

    The obvious cracks around the arête give a good climb, that is strenuous and well-protected, yet it still has a committing feel.

  • 16 - The Corner

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1973
    Rating: 1

    The obvious corner gives a good route.

  • 17 - Shortie

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The crack a couple of metres right of the corner leads to strenuous pulls then the top.

  • 18 - Flicker

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The wall just left of The Chimney.

  • 19 - The Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The obvious chimney.

  • 20 - Beginners` Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The wall to the right of the chimney, finishing left of a pointed block.

  • 21 - Starters` Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The wall to the right again finishing right of the pointed block.

  • 21a - Duerdon`s Route

    Grade: 4c to 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    The disjointed line to the left of Hand-jam Crack.