LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Overhang Wall

  • 11 - Fearsome

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    From the ledges at the left side of the Main Overhang, climb the corner to the high break, then traverse right to the arête and finish up this.

  • 12 - Awesome

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Follow Fearsome for about four metres, then traverse right on smears to reach the arête and finish up this.

  • 13 - Hallucinogenics

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    From the ledges at the left side of the Main Overhang climb the centre of the wall left of the arête, with the crux at the top overlap. Bold and unprotected unless you start seeing things!

  • 14 - Necromicon Arête

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 3

    After a sensational swing to cross the overhang, there is a good finish in a fine position. Exit from the centre of the left scoop and climb up to the left side of the Main Overhang, then swing right on to the Main Overhang and attain a standing position on the break above the roof (peg) Finish up the arête.

  • 15 - Necromicon

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 3

    An excellent climb, despite the poor rock below the roof. Start between the two scoops and climb up and left to the left side of the Main Overhang. This point can also be reached by climbing to the right side of the Main Overhang, then traversing left. Swing right on to the Main Overhang then gain a standing position above the roof (peg) then finish up the wall about two metres to the right of the arête, between the arête and the crack.

  • 16 - Necromicon Right-hand

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A much easier climb than might at first appear. Climb direct to the right-hand side of the Main Overhang, then step out left on to the lip of overhang and finish up the short crack and wall on the left.

  • 17 - Willy Wonker the Big, Fat Tonker

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb Necromicon Right-hand to the corner above Main Overhang, then surmount the roof directly above and finish direct.

  • 18 - Two Scoop or Not Two Scoop

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin crack that rises from the centre of the right scoop to the roof above, then finish direct.

  • 19 - Suck it and See

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    From the right side of the second scoop, climb up and right, then surmount a small overlap to reach the horizontal break, Traverse right along this until it is possible to finish up Phantom Trundler.

  • 20 - Poltergeist

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Immediately left of a jumble of blocks on the ground, there is a ramp which is overlooked by three small overhangs. Take a direct line over the first overhang.

  • 21 - Phantom Trundler

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ramp to the third overhang, then surmount this and climb up and slightly left to the horizontal break and finish direct as for Poltergeist.

  • 21a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the blunt arête on the right.

  • 22 - The Whore

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start at the right side of the jumble of blocks and climb to a small roof, then move left to easy ground.

  • 23 - Hara-kiri Hooker

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Starting as for The Whore climb to the right-hand side of the small roof, then step right to a crack and finish direct. The crack can also be gained direct.

  • 24 - Loathsome

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    The chossy, hanging groove that limits the wall on its right.