This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb the corner to a ledge on the right, then ascend the wall just right of a crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The wide, stepped crack at the right side of the wall right of the obvious corner.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 2
An interesting climb with a deceptively awkward crux at the top. Climb the green wall, or the corner, to the overhang. Follow the leftmost crack over the overhang and continue to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 1
The crack system in the centre of the wall right of the corner.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
From the foot of The Shepherd go left to grass, then climb the corner to just above the overhang. Traverse right and go up to a ledge then the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The short crack and wall about one metre right of the corner.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
From the foot of The Shepherd go left to grass then ascend the corner.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The corner gives a rather dirty climb.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Start lower down in a groove behind an elder tree. Climb the groove and step right, then climb up to the obvious crack and follow this to a dirty finish (or traverse right just below the top and finish as The Lamb)
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 1
Five metres left of the corner there is a large shelf at mid-height. Gain this shelf by a weakness on its left, then step right from the right end of the shelf and climb the wall above. Poor protection.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Start below the overhang. Climb the wall to the overhang, then go over this at the obvious weakness to gain a large ledge (on the girdle) Climb a crack to a ledge on the right arête, and move up into a short corner that leads to the top. An inferior variation using corners to the right then finishing at the same point has been climbed.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Left of the shelf is a wide angle capped by two overhangs. Climb up to the left side of the first overhang, then move left to a large ledge and tree. Finish up the cracked corner above.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Start as for Pulpy Kidney, but move left to a slight crack, and up this to an overhung niche. Exit from this to the girdle ledges and then finish up the corner above.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 2
A sustained climb with an exposed feel. Gain a little rib just left of the quarry corner, and follow thin cracks to the girdle ledges. The wider crack above leads to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Starts at the obvious overhanging corner. Climb into the corner, then move left under the roof, gain the front and ascend to a good ledge. Move right to a small corner and follow this to an overhanging niche. An awkward move leads out of the niche and the top is then within reach.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb a short crack and face to join Come By. The large corner leads past a tilted block to a steep slab and crack on the left. Ascend the slab to the bulge and finish over this.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the left. An overhung groove leads to a crack system which leads to the girdle. Follow a groove leading to a V-shaped groove with a crack in it and follow this to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb the crack to the right side of the cave, go right to a small groove and ascend to the girdle ledge. Climb up on to a large yellow block, then gain the triangular niche on the right and climb more or less direct to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb up and left of the cave, then move right and follow cracks and a cracked slab to a large overhung niche. Swing left and go up to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Climb into a corner and then gain a flat nose on the right. Continue up the wall to a roof, then go over this and move up left into a corner with a crack. Climb this until another crack on the left leads to the top (cave)
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
From the block on Dales Bred, climb into the first corner and gain a ledge below an overhang. Climb the crack/groove to good ledges. Ascend to a crack which leads to an overhang and surmount this with the help of a thin crack on the left. Finish directly, just right of a sandy cave.
Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start six metres to the left. Climb into the right side of the large recess, then follow the wall to a good ledge overlooking the grassy corner (nut belays)
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow the corner to an overhang, pull over this to large sandy holds, then more easily continue to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb the wall to a small corner. Ascend this to the large ledge of the girdle. Move left to a crack, and climb this past a large white-scarred block to a shallow sandy cave. Finish over the left side of the cave.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
The upper wall has an obvious, short, overhanging crack in it. Take a line up the wall to below the crack. Follow the crack to bold and exhilarating moves up the wall to a horizontal fault. A cracked wall then leads to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
The obvious chimney. Climb a short ramp to a corner and go up to a large ledge below a chimney. Climb the chimney and gain the recess. Move right for three metres and finish up the wall as for Reeperbahn Equaliser.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb the big corner to the crack and follow this to the overhanging vertical slot. Continue direct to the recess, then traverse right (care needed to protect the second) and finish as Reeperbahn Equaliser.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Follow ledges up and right to gain a large clean ledge. A long, dirty traverse leftwards leads to a corner above Derbyshire Gritstone and a finish.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
The corner leads to a dirty move into the traverse of Cast Horn which is then followed to join Cast Horn.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Start just left of the corner. Climb the cracked wall to the overhang, then continue up the crackline to a large sloping ledge (strenuous). Belay in the little corner (several nuts) or proceed to stakes on the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Climb a corner on the left, to the left of a hole. Move right and go up a steep rib, then pull up and climb past the large battered flake to gain a jamming crack then the large sloping ledge. Belay as for Derbyshire Gritstone (not ON Derbyshire Gritstone or you`ll need a very long rope!)
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Follow Lonk to the hole, then climb the corner to the roof, swing boldly out two metres left and go up to a ledge. Move up past a flake to gain a ledge with a large block and then the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
The grassy groove left of Underbelly.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
A line on the left of the wall some eight metres farther left.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Gain the crack and follow it strenuously to a nasty finish.
Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
A traverse of the quarry from right to left, starting at the foot of The Shepherd.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Go left on to grass, then left again to a large ledge system which is followed across the walls, crossing the dangerous overhang between Mutton Swing and Dales Bred at foot level. Continue across ledges, then go up to a belay (nuts) on a ledge overlooking the grassy corner rake in the centre of the back wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move up slightly and follow the obvious ledge across the wall until a move down leads across to Cloven Hoof. Go across into the overhanging slot of Acid Flush. Make an awkward move out left on to a large sloping ledge (care needed to protect the second) and follow the earthy traverse of Cast Horn to belay as for Derbyshire Gritstone.