LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Mediaeval Wall

  • 8 - Saxon

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 2

    A good climb, which compares favourably with the best at the nearby Heptonstall. Start from the lowest point on the wall at its left side and climb a flake and shallow groove, then make a hard mantel to gain a standing position on a small triangular foothold on the left (peg above). Follow the obvious right-leading crack, then move left round the roof and continue straight up to grass ledges. Peg belay by the grassy ledges.

  • 9 - Dane

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb Saxon for six metres, then follow the obvious right-slanting ledge for six metres to its end. Mantel on to the sloping ledge above, then traverse back left and finish up Saxon. (Peg belay).

  • 10 - Longship

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Start 30 metres right at a higher level, just left of an overhanging corner. Follow the obvious ramp left to a shallow cave, then step back round the nose on the left and continue in the same line to grass ledges overlooking Saxon.

  • 11 - Viking

    Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

  • 11.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start at the same point and climb an overhanging crack just left of the corner for six metres to ledges. Move left for three metres to a cave, then go up to a second cave and belay.

  • 11.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the left side of the cave climb a steep crack, and the wide crack above to a ledge. Finish up and to the right.

  • 12 - Warrior

    Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

  • 12.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the overhanging corner, then move right over blocks and back left to a sloping ledge and belay.

  • 12.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the right side of the ledge climb on to the slab above, then trend right to an obvious wide crack and finish up Viking.

  • 13 - Norseman

    Grade: 4a,– | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

  • 13.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    2 metres farther right is a shallow groove leading to a V-shaped niche. Climb this to a large ledge on the right.

  • 13.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Move left and climb up obvious cracks. Loose.