LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Edge

  • 1 - Pendulum Swing

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1957)
    Rating: 0

    Climb a crack to an overhang, then move left and finish up a short chimney. Sadly, this route has been damaged by chipping done by vandals.

  • 2 - Pendulum Swing Direct

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    The wall to the left of the crack leads with difficulty to the short chimney.

  • 3 - Slin and Thippy

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    The wall left again leads easily to the very hard, and bold, upper section.

  • 4 - No Sign of Three

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 1

    Climb cracks to a horizontal break. Move left and go up the groove with difficulty to ledges. Finish via the obvious weakness.

  • 5 - Palmistry

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall on the left, then continue, using the arête, to reach ledges, then finish as above, or traverse left.

  • 6 - Twin Cracks

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1913
    Rating: 1

    The left-hand crack is easier than the right-hand, or they can be combined.

  • 7 - South Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1913
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack to an obvious chimney, browse a while, then continue to the top.

  • 8 - Outside Edge

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 1

    Climb the outside edge of the chimney by bridging and traditional techniques. Protectable, but it feels bold.

  • 9 - Pots

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin crack left of the chimney. At the horizontal break, move left for a couple of metres, then climb up and back right to `one of those` finishes.

  • 10 - Tryche

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1957-69)
    Rating: 2

    The wall on the left is climbed as directly as possible to a pocket (runner). Climb the little groove and finish direct. A bold and technical outing.

  • 11 - Little Miss Id

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 3

    The blunt arête left of Tryche leads to an overhang. Step on to this from the right and gain a large ledge. Finish up the left side of the short wall.

  • 11a - Variations

    Grade: 6a,6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    (a) Climb the wall left of the usual start to the roof, step right and finish as usual. (b) From the large ledge, finish rightwards – hard (6a). A fine, testing route.

  • 11b - Synthesis

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Takes the roof direct, starting up variation (a) above.

  • 12 - Master Ego

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    The left arête leads to the overhang. Pass it on its left to gain the ledge above and finish as for Little Miss Id.

  • 13 - Central Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1951)
    Rating: 1

    A steep and difficult start relents a little, higher up.

  • 14 - Central Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1951)
    Rating: 0

    The left-hand crack gives a bold climb.

  • 15 - Central Eliminate

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Early 70s)
    Rating: 0

    Climb between the two cracks.

  • 16 - Cornflake

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1960/1963-69/1969)
    Rating: 0

    The corner left of Central Crack leads to an obvious break. The flake can be gained with difficulty and leads steeply to the top. Care is needed with protection. A hard lead.

  • 17 - The Mangler

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1960
    Rating: 1

    The obvious overhanging crack provides a good testing pitch.

  • 18 - Belly on a Plate

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Start beneath The Mangler and climb the left-hand crack to an overhang. Pull left and `belly` on to a ledge. Climb the right arête of the chimney to the top. There are other variations at a similar grade.

  • 19 - North Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1913
    Rating: 0

    Gain the cave from the left and leave it on the right.

  • 19a - Nor Nor` Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1913
    Rating:

    Leaves the cave leftwards over a chockstone.

  • 20 - Manibus et Pedibusque

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1967/Early 1970s)
    Rating: 1

    A difficult traverse across the wall left of Nor` Nor` Chimney leads to a finish up the arête. A serious route with a controversial history!

  • 21 - Slim Jim

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    A lower wall leads to the foot of the crack. After a bold move the crack eases.

  • 22 - Phase Change

    Grade: 5c,5b | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 1

  • 22.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Begin at the arête right of No Sign of Three. Climb up and traverse cracks to the arête. Gain Twin Cracks and go up and across South Chimney to a horizontal foot ledge. Balance across Pots and Tryche, then get across Little Miss Id (crux) to the large ledge and a sitting belay (small friend and high, large RP).

  • 22.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Go down and across to Central Groove. gain Central Crack, then go leftwards and down to join Cornflake below a bulge. Climb up and left and gain the wide cleft with difficulty, then wriggle (curse or laugh!) along until it is possible to stand at the upper crack of Mangler. Continue more easily to join the North Climbs and finish in the same line. For the hardy, it is possible to join the traverse of Manibus et Pedibusque then finish up that route (E4, 6a).