This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Several lines are possible, all of which lead to a finish entirely composed of loose blocks. If undeterred, the best start is probably by the left-facing slab starting below a large tree.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
The short, wide, overhanging chimney between two noses at the left side of the quarry.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
Rating: 0
Climb directly to the nose, then move right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1
Follow the rib right of the steep wall to a large ledge on the left (belay possible, but rather pointless). Move up awkwardly just left of a large projecting block and then go straight up the wall above on good jugs to twin trees. Pleasant but over all too soon.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Pull into an undercut recess on the right of the second nose, then climb the stepped corner and pull out left above the nose.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Start just right again. Climb up and slightly left, then move left to the large grass ledge. The large ramp on the right is both awkward and bold to start; follow it to broken ledges and finish diagonally up the fine wall to the leftmost of the large trees.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Start a metre to the right. Climb into a triangular niche, then pull onto a large ledge and finish up the wall above.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
Start as for Bowland Wall but move awkwardly right just before the large ledge, past blocks to gain the lower parallel ramp. Follow this boldly to its end then move up to the broken ledges on Bowland Wall. Continue straight up the wall using a right-slanting crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Climb on to the left side of a sandy block (loose) then continue up the crack through the left side of the overhangs above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 1
A very direct line up the highest part of the crag. Start just right of Bowland Wall at a short left-facing corner; climb this and continue up the steep black wall (bold) to finish as for Guillotine.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Climb on to the right side of the sandy block, then follow the cracks that split the overhangs above on their right.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the short corner as for Captain Beaky then follow the narrow slab/ramp to a ledge with several trees (Owl`s Nest Ledge). Climb the wall behind and move slightly right to another tree. Or, (easier and often drier) move right and climb an obvious break to the tree, as for Owl`s Nest Direct. Finish leftwards to the large trees, the last couple of metres being quite loose.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start at the left end of an overhung recess at three metres. Gain the blunt rib on the left, pull on to the ledge right of the previous climb and climb the wall above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
Start a little to the right below a white crystalline wall. Move up on to this and climb diagonally right to cross Owl Wall, just left of Owl`s Nest Ledge. Climb the wall above, trending slightly left then go straight up to the trees; the best route on the crag.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start below the centre of the large recess and climb straight up, through overhangs, passing a borehole in the top overhang.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb directly up to Owl`s Nest Ledge.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Climb the groove directly to the left side of the nose, then climb this by the crack to its left.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
A wide and rather dirty crack runs up to the right end of Owl`s Nest Ledge. Follow this then step right and go up an obvious break to the higher tree, and finish as for Owl Wall.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 1
Climb the wall two metres right, below a prominent rock nose at the top of the crag. Swing right below the nose to an awkward landing on a ledge, then finish up the wall. A direct finish over the nose would be much harder!
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Very dirty and not recommended. The original first pitch took the large easy-angled slab (or hanging garden!) to the large tree, but a more direct approach is probably better. From the tree, climb up to a ledge and swing left to a deep groove. Go up this and finish up the left edge of a broken slab.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Gain the triangular sentry-box on the right, then surmount the overhang above, finishing just right of Bite the Dust.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
High up the slope on the right, climb the right side of a block left of the last area of rock, then go up the centre of the wall above, passing a small tree.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 1
Start below the centre of overlapping slabs two metres to the right. Trend left to the top slab.
Grade: 4a,4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Follow the right edge of the slabs, straight up to the top slab, but avoiding the next climb.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb Original Route to the top of the block, then descend the left side of the block to a tree. Up easily as for Primrose Route for a couple of metres until a traverse can be made to Owl`s Nest Ledge.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start just to the right below a square recess and continue up the overlapping column.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Descend Owl Wall until just above the foot of the ramp. A traverse can then be made to join Bowland Wall; follow this to the large grass ledge then continue leftwards to finish up Left Edge (after reading the warning in that route`s description).
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start one metre right. Climb up the lower wall past a small letter-box, then gain the upper recess by a mantel.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating: 1
From Owl`s Nest Ledge step up then diagonally left to gain the ledges on Bowland Wall. Reverse this until just above the large protruding block. Step left onto the block and finish as for Owl Stretching Time. There is hardly any independent climbing and the girdle is less complete, but it is higher, better and safer.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start at the right-hand end of an undercut wall one metre to the right. Climb left of the nose to a pleasant top wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
From the foot of the right arête, climb up to and follow an obvious line of holds leading left for two metres, then finish direct.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Boulder directly up an overhanging nose, then climb the wall above.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Follow the right arête.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Climb immediately right of the overhanging nose, then continue through overlaps to a vertical borehole line in the top wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Start one metre right at the centre of an overlap and pull on to a large ledge directly above. Continue up the wall just left of a blunt rib.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Climb through the overlap at its right-hand end without using the block on Kleeneze. Continue up the blunt rib above.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start just to the right and use a triangular block to gain the ledge, then follow the steep groove to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start just below the `butterfly` with a central bore hole, then climb past the large ledge and upper recess.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Make a difficult mantelshelf on to a large ledge, then step right and follow the steep front face to overcome a small overhang on the right.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Start two metres to the right below a hole in the rock. Climb the rib, then step left into a recess and follow the steep corner to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
Start two metres to the right at a small, sloping niche. Climb the smooth slab above to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Climb the right-angled corner to large ledges then bridge up loose rock. Exit left.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Gain a nose from its right side, then follow an S-shaped crack up the top wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
Climb the centre of the lower wall, to gain the obvious, deep crack in the overhang.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Climb the curving crack to the overlap, reach up to a slot, then go straight up and exit on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
From the ledge on the right reach up to a pocket, then make committing moves on to a ledge. Finish easily.
Grade: S | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
Start up Trowel Corner, then traverse right below a large ledge. Step up into the recess of Owling, cross below the overhang, then move down to a sentry-box of November Ember and hand-traverse across the slab. Step up and traverse the ledge round Brush Up buttress; continue across Hodder Wall to the corner. Horizontal ledges then lead past Evening Crack to a finish round the top nose of Last Crack.