LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Downham Walls

  • 65 - Baalbreth

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climb up the extreme left edge of the wall.

  • 66 - The Reeve

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1969-71/1975)
    Rating: 1

    The system of narrow cracks splitting the face to the right.

  • 67 - Satan

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Just right is a groove in the centre of the wall at its top. Climb a short wall to gain the groove, then follow it to the top.

  • 68 - Walpurgis Eve

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall one metre right to a mantel, then continue direct.

  • 68a - Alternative Start

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating:

    Climb the left side of the right arête all the way.

  • 69 - Serenity

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 2

    A worthwhile excursion for anyone climbing at this grade. From the mantel on Walpurgis Eve, step right and move up to the higher of two ledges. Turn the arête on its right and finish up the left edge of the slab. Twin-bolt belay.

  • 70 - Tibb

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    Just right, two grooves meet at half-height to form a Y. Climb the scrappy left-hand groove to a twin-bolt belay.

  • 71 - Pendle Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    The right-hand groove.

  • 72 - Downham Racer

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Climb the steep wall just to the right, to a sloping shelf, and continue up a short groove to a good ledge. The slabby wall just left of the arête provides a good finish, taken more or less up its centre.

  • 73 - Tarot Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    From a ledge at two metres on Mouldheels, move up slightly, then swing left using a drillhole in a small, inverted triangular niche. Make a long reach up, then finish via the obvious flakeline in the wall above. The niche can be gained more directly, with difficulty, but the holds are brittle and a long reach is helpful.

  • 74 - Mouldheels

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    The poor, right-slanting groove on the right.

  • 75 - Black`s Magic

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    Just right is a low dome-shaped buttress flanked on its right by slabs. Climb the centre of the dome to gain the slab above, then step right and climb a shallow scoop with difficulty to a ledge on the right. Finish up a short wall on the left.

  • 76 - Nance

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    Climb the slabs on the right of the low dome to the foot of a deep groove which starts at mid-height. Follow this to the top.

  • 77 - Witch Trial

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin, right-leaning crack which used to be pegged, passing one peg to finish up a fin of rock.

  • 78 - Diabolos Vobiscum

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall between Witch Trial and the arête on the right, past a small tree to a ledge. Finish up the rib above

  • 79 - Wicca

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Just round the arête are two cracks. Climb the left crack, then step right to finish up the slab.

  • 80 - First Impressions

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The right crack, finishing up the slab.