LANCASHIRE ROCK

33 - The Spell

Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1

A somewhat wandering line, but nevertheless, a worthwhile route. Climb the steep wall two metres to the right of the memorial plaque to a small ledge on the left. Move up, then step right in an exposed position, to gain a horizontal break (peg on right). Finish direct.

34 - Spellbound

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 2

Straightens out The Spell and gives more sustained climbing. Climb the cracked wall to a ledge on the right, then continue up a thin crack to a small overlap. Follow a short groove up left to the horizontal break (peg, out of sight) and finish up the wall above on spaced holds.

35 - Waxen Doll

Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 2

A well-protected climb with some surprising holds in hidden pockets. Start just before a large pointed boulder on the ground (The Magician`s Hat) and follow a right-sloping ledge to the foot of an obvious groove. Ascend to a peg, then move left and up past a second peg to a horizontal break (peg) and finish direct.

36 - Resurgent Spirit

Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0

From the first peg on Waxen Doll take a direct line to the top.

37 - Witch Bane

Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1969
Rating: 2

At the bottom, the groove gives sustained and technical bridging and this is followed by an entertaining flake finish that is easier than it looks. Follow the right-sloping ledge as for Waxen Doll to the groove. Climb the groove to a ledge on the right (Malkin Ledge), then step left and climb a flake crack, finishing directly.

38 - Devil Worshipper

Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0

Starting two metres to the right of The Magician`s Hat, climb easy, cleaned rock to a short, capped groove immediately right of the groove on Witch Bane. Climb this groove and the overhang above to a gangway on the right, then follow this easily leftwards to Malkin Ledge. Climb the steep wall at the back of this ledge by some intricate moves to a sapling at the top.

39 - Black Mass

Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 2

A satisfying climb on excellent rock. The difficulties increase with height, although the final groove is not as hard as it first appears.

39.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Start five metres to the right of The Magician`s Hat, immediately right of the wide crack. Gain thin cracks in the arête, directly or from either side, then follow these and the wall above to a peg belay on the ledge (The Gallery). A much easier start is also possible on the left.

39.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Follow an easy gangway leftwards to Malkin Ledge, then finish up the short, overhanging groove on the right.

40 - Brimstone

Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 2

40.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Two metres to the right of the arête there is a shallow, hanging groove. Climb the fine crack on the left side of this to a peg belay on the ledges above (The Gallery).

40.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Step left and climb the wall above, surmounting a small overhang on good holds to finish direct.

41 - Dark Secrets

Grade: 5b,5c | First Ascent: (1980-81)
Rating: 0

41.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

From a point three metres up Peel Off, step left into a groove, and follow this to The Gallery (peg belay).

41.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:

A serious pitch. Continue up the blunt rib, immediately right of the peg, to below an obvious small roof. Pull over this roof then continue up the wall to finish. From the small roof an easier finish is possible by moving left then finishing up Brimstone.

42 - Peel Off

Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 2

42.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

Start two metres to the left of the gully which limits Central Wall on the right. Gain a ledge at four metres (The Boiling Pot), then step up and hand-traverse left to The Gallery (peg belay).

42.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

Move back right past a rib and climb the flake crack, which proves easier than it looks, but is nevertheless very worthwhile.

43 - Crucible

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 2

Follow Peel Off to The Boiling Pot, then continue in a direct line to a ledge below a shallow groove. Climb the groove, using holds on the right wall, to a large ledge and an easy finish.

44 - Cloven Hoof

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1978/1998)
Rating: 2

A route of considerable character, with steep, sustained climbing and good protection where it matters. There is also a direct start up the fingery wall to the right. From The Boiling Pot, step right and follow an obvious line of pockets and cracks up the wall, to gain a slab and easier climbing to the top.

44a - Direct Start

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the pink wall on the right of Peel Off.

45 - Sorcerer`s Apprentice

Grade: 4a,5a,5a,4c | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 2

An entertaining traverse of the Twiston and Central Walls, with an interesting hand traverse on the third pitch.

45.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb Broomstick until it is possible to traverse at mid-height to Alice. Continue in the same line to Cauldron Crack, move down and belay on the ledge below the overhang on Shrew.

45.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Traverse awkwardly above the corner of Beelzebub, step down and follow the horizontal break across Cracklap and Familiar`s Fall, to a belay at the right of the long ledge (on Thrutch).

45.3 - Pitch 3

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

From the ledge move up and right to the horizontal break. Hand-traverse right (peg) on good holds to Malkin Ledge and reverse the easy gangway of Black Mass to a peg belay on The Gallery.

45.4 - Pitch 4

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Step right and finish up Peel Off.

45.4a - Alternative Finish

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Continue the traverse to Cloven Hoof and then to finish up that route.