LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Vaults

  • 95 - The Puppet

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    From the right-hand side of the pit at a slightly higher level where the bank starts to rise, climb large ledges to a shelf and traverse left to the arête. Finish up a prominent, short, V-groove. Exposed.

  • 96 - Marionette

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Start just to the right. Climb via a slot to the ledge and go straight up steep broken wall.

  • 97 - No Strings

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Follow the left-leading, open groove at the top of the bank via several ledges. Exit left at the top.

  • 98 - Punch

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Three metres to the right is a short, inverted, triangular slab. Climb the left edge of this to a large ledge on the arête. Finish up a short groove.

  • 99 - Judy

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the slab, then straight over the overhang to the top.

  • 100 - Sandy

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres farther right and climb a short wall to a sandy ledge, then escape leftwards and finish up Judy.

  • 101 - Good Friday

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Bridge up the obvious corner at the left end of the wall and exit right on to the belay ledge.

  • 102 - Mother`s Day

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 1

    Start at the left end of the wall and climb to a peg on the arête. Continue to an interesting mantel on to the ledge.

  • 103 - Easy Club

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 1

    Start two metres to the right and climb bulging ledges. Continue past a peg using a finger-flake to the top.

  • 104 - Peggy Day

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the right, behind a tree stump. Climb the lower wall to a jutting triangular ledge, then go straight up past a peg on the right.

  • 105 - Strangeways

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Climb the open corner, then step right at the top to finish.

  • 106 - Flat as a Fluke

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Boulder over rounded ledges at the left end of the wall to a large ledge and finish up the left side of an arête.

  • 107 - Has Pete Had His Supper?

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right. Climb large ledges to below a steeper crack, which is climbed moving right.

  • 108 - After Eight

    Grade: 5a,5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 1

    A right-to-left, high-level girdle of The Vaults and The Pit, giving good climbing and exciting situations, especially in the dark as on the first ascent.

  • 108.1 - 35m

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Follow Flat as a Fluke to a ledge at three metres, then traverse to the corner and cross the wall at the level of the pegs to the arête. Move round and traverse to the ledge and niche on Punch (thread). Committing moves around the arête and overhanging wall lead to a belay on No Strings.

  • 108.2 - 15m

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Traverse left to the V-groove of Puppet, move round the arête to gain the corner and an obvious ledge (peg on left). Continue at the same height past a threaded peg, then make an ascending hand-traverse to reach Pinnochio`s nose. Finish up that route.

  • 109 - From Here to There to You

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 1

    A low-level traverse from the start of Pinnochio rightwards across The Pit. At the right end (Mother Earth) move up and climb the first two metres of The Puppet, then continue round The Vaults, going low at the arête of Punch, then follow a lower traverse line on the front wall into Strangeways. Finish at the next arête, continue into brambles, or better still reverse Pinnochio.