LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Rock Island

  • 1 - Cracked Overhang

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The arête immediately to the left of the stubby pedestal. Start on the right and make an interesting pull round, then finish past some interesting threads. An easier start can be made on the left.

  • 1a - Overstretched

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    Start up Cracked Overhang, then at the overhang make an extremely long reach to gain a good hold and use this to finish direct up the wall. Could be impossible for less-than-six-footers.

  • 2 - Dogfish

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The pleasant steep wall just right of the stubby pedestal is climbed on good holds.

  • 3 - Calcarb Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Follow the obvious arête at the right side of the wall, as directly as possible.

  • 4 - Red Mist

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short corner then swing left below a bush and finish up the wide crack or the rib on its left.

  • 5 - Triple Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    The short wall on the right.

  • 6 - Twin Cracks

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    Start below the rib on the right of the corner. Move up and left around the bulge to reach the cracks with difficulty. Finish up the all-too-brief arête. A direct pull over the bulge is harder.

  • 7 - Bop Route

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Start just round the rib, beneath a spreading yew. Climb the broken wall to enter a deep groove, then move left across the clean white wall to finish up the rib.