This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
From the depression, climb the groove (some loose rock) or scramble up from the right, then step left on to an easy-angled slab, and move up to a belay.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
Climb the arête and groove to the right of Helden until an overhang is reached, then swing right in to another crack system and follow it to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1
Climb the thin crack behind the ash to the break, traverse left and follow a second crack to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb over doubtful blocks to the pink and grey wall, then move up and right to broken ledges, and continue to the large ledge, peg belay.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 1
Follow the arête right of Helden to an overlap, then swing right into a groove and finish up this.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1995
Rating: 1
Start one metre to the left and follow a direct line through G Squared via two undercuts. Jam up the breaks at the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Walk six metres to the left, then cross a steep slab (peg) and move up to a small niche. Swing left round a block, then ascend the corner above to a belay on the left.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Climb the deep groove on the very edge of Main Wall to an overhang on the right. Break out left along a horizontal crack to the corner on Warspite. Move up to the roof and pull round this on its left, finishing up the short headwall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1
Start at the left arête of the wall and pull over the first overhang on the blunt rib, then climb directly to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
Traverse left using doubtful blocks, then go up a short corner to a large ledge and peg belay.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating:
A variation finish to Helden. From the top roof use the roof crack to move right around the roof for about five metres, then finish up easier ground.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating:
The initial overhang can be avoided by easier climbing up the obvious scoop on the right.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
Walk along the ledge to a broken corner near the left end, and climb this over poor rock, finishing on the left. After the first pitch of the route there are several variations which would be possible, but all need extensive cleaning.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974/1975)
Rating: 1
An adventurous route starting up the big corner at the right-hand side of the wall. About three metres below the roof a horizontal break leads left to the arête. Move up, then go left along the first horizontal crack until a wide crack can be taken to finish.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
The square-cut chimney at the right side of a recess.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
About 35 metres farther left there is a groove, which is guarded by an undercut block and overhang at the foot of the crag. Start at the right side of the overhang and immediately above it, traverse left to climb the right side of the block into the groove. Exit the groove to easy ground (possible belay), then move up to a corner leading to an overhang just left of an arête near the top of the crag. There is still loose rock on the route.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
A direct start to Heroes. Start at the foot of Warspite and climb the wall just left of a small arête to reach the right-hand side of the large roof. Surmount this using pockets, then continue up the arête and wall above as for Helden.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Climb directly up the groove in the centre of the recess, and finish over a bulge.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Follow the clean slab capped with small overhangs between Rock Folly and White Fright. No start has yet been climbed so the approach is by an abseil from the terrace to a ledge at half-height. Climb the slab above this to overhangs, then move left and climb direct to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1978/1998)
Rating: 1
Follow Warspite Direct until above the roof then, at a prominent rust-coloured stain, move right to the arête using a thin horizontal crack (where the flake used to be). Climb the arête (crux) to a small overhang, level with the traverse of Warspite, then folow the superb, thin, left-trending crack to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Climb the flake crack at the left side of the recess and step left to a good foothold just below the overhangs. Finish via the wide crack that splits the overhangs.
Grade: 5a,4a | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
Very loose and not recommended. Halfway along the main wall is a large cone of debris with a large ledge on the left. Take the groove on the left of this.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1994
Rating:
At the point where Heroes and Warspite Direct diverge, climb the wall just to the left of the rust-coloured stain to the roof, then continue past two overlaps until it is possible to finish up Heroes.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Three metres to the left is a vague crack at head height. Climb this to the ledge, then continue up the wall above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow the right-slanting ramp over doubtful blocks to below a small overhang, then step right and swing right on to a ledge (no belay). Move left on to the wall (peg) and go up for three metres, then move left and up on to a steep slab (peg). From the peg step up and traverse right into the groove-line and follow this with increasing difficulty (two pegs) to a sloping ledge. Ring peg belay.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
The next corner runs up to a roof at half-height. Gain the corner from the right and climb to the roof. Move right and climb the crack splitting the roof – strenuous and spectacular. The widening crack above is a bit of an anticlimax.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1987)
Rating: 0
Climb the square-cut groove beneath and just right of, a hefty ash, then finish behind the tree or (harder) by the dimpled scoop on the right.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Bridge up the corner at the back of the ledge to the terrace, peg belay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1998
Rating:
Thin climbing to link Harijan and Warspite. Follow Harijan on to the face, then make awkward moves up the arête to Hollow Earth and continue rightwards to the crack on Warspite Direct. Finish up this, or, more sustained via Ashes to Ashes.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
Start just to the left of the large ash. Climb the fine layback flake and dimpled bulges above.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Climb Limestone Rain but continue the traverse for nine metres to below a ramp (possible belay). Climb this to a roof (peg), which is turned on the right. Continue up to a large loose flake and go round this to enter a scoop. Climb up and right (peg) into a slim groove (crux) which leads to the top. Belays well back.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
Sustained and strenuous, but well-protected. A climb that would be a classic on most crags, but on the Main Wall at Trowbarrow it plays second fiddle to its neighbours. Nevertheless, it is more than worthwhile and a good reason to return to the crag from far afield, even if you`ve done everything else. Start as for Warspite Direct, but move out left just below the roof to gain the superb, sustained diagonal crack, joining Harijan near the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
Start four metres left of the large ash. Climb a blocky crack to a ledge, then finish up the scoop on the right.
Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 2
A good route, though ascents often take on an epic quality.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating:
A bold alternative finish to the previous route. About two metres short of the junction with Harijan the crack widens to hand-jam size. Step up and then go right on small holds, and continue up with some anxiety until better holds arrive.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 1
From the ledge on Doggo climb directly up the steep wall to finish just right of a short crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Ascend the groove at the foot of Plastic Iceberg until it is possible to step up and right onto a slab. Cross this to a short corner (peg), then climb the steep wall on the right (care should be taken to protect the second for these moves), and go across to the right side of an easy ledge system. Peg belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 3
Although this route crosses some impressive rock, surprisingly, the climbing never exceeds VS. A must for any visiting VS leader. Start up the corner until a horizontal crack leads awkwardly left on to the face. Follow it leftwards and then up the obvious jamming crack to the top. Care is needed to avoid rope drag.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the deep flake crack to an obvious jagged beak, then semi-hand-traverse right to a chimney and climb it on the outside.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Go up the shallow groove on the right to the roof, then traverse left to the end of the overhang and go straight up (peg) to another roof. Surmount this on the right using some doubtful blocks, then continue up an obvious layback crack towards the next overhang. At a small ledge on the left either, continue up to the roof then surmount it on its left, or climb straight up from the ledge. Above the overhang follow the obvious groove to the top, then walk well back to a belay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 2
An excellent climb, but the rock is becoming highly polished and this can be very intimidating. To the left an obvious left-slanting pod/crack splits the overhang. Move left beneath this and climb it with difficulty (well-protected with Friends). The fine jamming crack above leads to a junction with Harijan. Finish as for that route.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
The line on the inside of the chockstone.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
A frightening climb on less than perfect rock. From the belay on Plastic Iceberg, traverse six metres right then follow the right-trending crack/ramp line (peg) to a pleasant finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating:
A poor but much easier variation starts just right of Jean Jeanie and follows the wall until a horizontal crack leads rightwards to the base of the jamming crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 0
Climb to the beak (as for Earwig Two) then gain an awkward hanging groove which leads to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1977/1980)
Rating: 2
An excellent and airy route. Start from the belay on Plastic Iceberg. Traverse right to the arête, then climb the left-hand side of this until just below the overlap; step left and go up to a peg. Pass this to a second overlap and another peg. Step right and climb up to a horizontal break, then go straight up the slab above, just left of the arête, to finish.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 1
Ascend the arête just right of Touch of Class variation start and climb to the break on that route. Move right and climb to a second break and continue to Major Tom. Follow this left until it is possible to enter a depression from the left and leave it rightwards (Rocks 2 and 3). Gain the crack of Space Oddity and follow it left to climb the left-hand of two faint cracks (just right of Jean Jeanie) moving rightwards near the top.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Climb Earwig Two to the beak, then move left for about two metres to the middle of the overlap and make a very hard move over this to an easy finish.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating:
After clipping the first peg, step down and go right to the arête. Climb the shallow groove just right of the arête, stretching left to clip the second peg, then finish as for the parent route.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1
An unsatisfactory line redeemed by some fine climbing. Start as for Touch of Class but after the crux take a gently rising thin crack leftwards to join Jean Jeanie, follow this until it dog-legs right, then move out left to finish up a fine diagonal crack.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
Four metres left of the beak, a crack runs through the centre of a small roof. Climb up to the roof, then surmount it by a painful jam.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
An exhilarating route with a bold finish. Follow Killer Queen to the first peg, step down and traverse left for four metres then make awkward moves (crux) up past a peg to the horizontal break. Step right then make a mind-bending runout past a pod-shaped hole to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1994
Rating: 0
Climb the arête right of Jean Jeanie, then step right above the roof and climb directly past a scoop to the diagonal crack of Major Tom, just above. Finish up this.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
One metre left of Agrippa, climb the thin groove to a stepped-break in the overhangs and continue via a crack.
Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 3
This was the first and arguably the best route on the Main Wall, despite the fact that it took a Yorkshireman to discover it. It takes the prominent, deep groove that splits the Main Wall towards its left-hand side.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 3
The central crackline is a classic of its grade; sustained and quite strenuous but with good protection and resting places. Climb the blocky wall to gain the crack proper and follow it to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
The classic of the crag, but the polished start may deter some climbers. However, it is worth persevering and the traverse is particularly worthwhile. Two metres left of Herod, layback up a smooth flake/crack, hand-traverse left at the top to gain a niche and exit from this by a crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the lower, slabby groove to an overhang which is passed on the left. At a second overhang, move left to the arête, make an awkward mantel and continue to the base of the left-hand groove. Step into the right-hand groove and climb this to a belay ledge and an iron spike belay. From the second overhang it is also possible to move right and follow grooves to the belay. This is only just 4c, but the bottom couple of blocks appear somewhat unstable.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986/1997)
Rating: 1
Top section previously known as Blow Job. Start just to the left of Jean Jeanie and climb past several horizontal breaks and a vertical crack (thread) to the thin crack which starts just left of the dog-leg on Jean Jeanie. Continue up this to a small niche (peg – hard to clip). Continue direct, with much trepidation to a second peg, then go up to meet a good crack (Major Tom) and so to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 1
Continue through the roof above the initial flake crack.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Sustained climbing up the groove leads past a small overlap to a peg. Continue to a small overlap near the top, then pass this on its right to reach the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 2
The wide left-hand crack above the cave has a bold and awkward middle section, which is difficult to protect.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1996)
Rating: 0
Take a direct line up the undercut rib to finish up The Shriek!
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Follow the second pitch of Plastic Iceberg to an overlap (peg on left) then move down to a small footledge on the left. Traverse left along this to the arête and climb up to a jammed block on House of Usher. Climb the steep crack on the right and pull on to a small ledge, then finish on the left as for House of Usher.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 3
This is an established test-piece for climbers moving up the grades. However, it is becoming ever more polished, so take care. Follow Aladdinsane to the base of the straight section of the crack then move out left to the thin diagonal crack. Follow this crack; the first six metres are very sustained but can be well-protected. Finish via the horizontal breaks on the left.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 1
Start three metres left of The Shriek and just past an arête. Climb the crack with an ash near its top in the right wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 2
An airy pitch with a worrying pull on to a `way out there` block. From the belay of Plastic Iceberg swing round the rib on the left onto a short slab. Cross this to the foot of a ramp/groove, (possible belay): follow this past two pegs to below the block which guards entry into the upper groove. Make a mind-blowing heave on to the block and continue up the groove with a swing left to finish.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 1
Climb Oniscus for three metres then follow the thin crack in the Main Wall to a move right to gain Cracked Actor. Follow this for a couple of metres then move right on to the face and climb this direct via a peg.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The corner to the left of The Shriek!
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: -1
A recent rockfall has occurred near the bottom of this route which is now in a dangerous state. Follow Plastic Iceberg pitch one for three metres, then move left to gain a steep crack: climb this through overhangs, moving left to another crack. Move right and climb over suspect rock (care) to a ledge.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Follow Makin` Magic until it moves right to join Cracked Actor. At this point move left and follow a thin crack until an awkward move gains the horizontal breaks and the finish of Cracked Actor.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Climb the polished V-shaped groove a little to the left of Slime Gut, step right under the overlap and finish up the slab above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Follow the second pitch of House of Usher to the arête then climb leftwards and break through the overhang on the left. Finish up the wall above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
A devious and unsatisfactory attempt at a girdle; it finishes in a fine position but apart from this there is every reason to think a right-to-left girdle would be better. Follow Oniscus for nine metres to a horizontal crack which leads to the junction of Aladdinsane and Cracked Actor, then move down slightly and go right along a horizontal break to join Jean Jeannie. Ascend this until it is possible to step right to Hollow Earth, and traverse right to the base of the wide crack of Warspite Direct. Move right along the second horizontal crack to Heroes, then step up and continue the traverse above the large roof until it is possible to finish past large blocks on the arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2003
Rating: 1
Follow Appleton Crack to the overlap, then move left using the short flake crack and finish up the arête.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 2
Another excellent route: when combined with the direct finish it makes a superb outing. It takes a direct line up the slab left of Fall of the House of Usher. From the belay of Demise of Lady Madeline, follow Cosmic Debris for six metres (large Hex) then traverse right and go up to a thin crack in the slab. Sustained but well-protected climbing leads to a horizontal break. Move right, then finish as for Future Now.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The corner between Main Wall and Red Slab gives a poor, loose and vegetated route. It might improve with traffic – if it ever gets any!
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
Three metres to the left, follow the deep, twisting crack.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1987
Rating:
Climb direct to the top from the horizontal break. Bold.
Grade: 5a,5b | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
An interesting right-to-left traverse, which proves easier than it may at first appear, but nevertheless, the position of some of the moves may give some pause for thought.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 0
The cracked corner left of Hazy Daze.
Grade: 5a,5b,5b | First Ascent: (1979-80)
Rating: 1
This occasionally loose but otherwise good route takes the corner line left of Plastic Iceberg to give three interesting pitches.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow Helden until it is possible to belay on a pedestal below the large roof.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Climb the dark, crozzly wall on the left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
From the foot of the corner climb a shattered groove past a peg then an easy curving flake to a small stance. Good nut belay. Alternative stance six metres up the corner on a ledge on the right.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow Helden to the roof, then move out on to the front face and traverse left with hands on the thin horizontal break, until it is possible to finish up Major Tom.
Grade: 4c,5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
Rating: 1
A strenuous route stretching leftwards from Idleness to Slime Gut.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the corner above with increasing difficulty to gain the groove above and a nut belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb Idleness to the good foothold and hand-traverse left using the break to reach a belay on a ledge with a tree.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Continue up the corner to a small roof; layback this and climb to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Continue at the same level to the wall of Agrippa. Trend down leftwards slightly to the first crack on Agrippa and climb this to the roof. Hand-traverse left to The Shriek, step round the arête on the left, and finish up Slime Gut.
Grade: 5a,5b,5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 1
Takes the right-slanting ramp system to the left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the right-trending slab/ramp (which forms a short chimney at the bottom) to a sitting block belay.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the wall behind for a couple of metres, then move left into the slender right-trending ramp. Follow this to ledges at its top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the prominent corner behind (on the left) by a layback, then continue over an overhang to easier ground.
Grade: 5b,5b | First Ascent: (1983-86)
Rating: 0
A good but rather bold route. Start six metres left of Saruman.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow broken but easy ground up to a large flake at the base of a slim groove. Climb the groove stepping right at the top to a peg belay below a small roof.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Step right and go up to boldly gain a shallow groove on the left. Follow this to the roof and traverse left under this on good jams to exit on to easier ground to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 2
The rock is at its best on the slab, which gives technical moves on solid rock and a choice of holds on the less demanding sections. From pitch one of Real World move up below the overlap then pull over on to the slab (peg). After another step up traverse right (crux) to a foot ledge on the arête. Climb straight up past a second peg to a sloping ledge then continue more easily to the long traversing ledge on Real World. Climb the wall above via a vague crackline to its highest point.
Grade: –,4b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
The easiest way up the left-hand side of the main wall. A rather broken first pitch leads to good groove/slab climbing on the second pitch. It takes the next big corner left of Cosmic Debris.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start below and go left of the corner at a short wall of more stable rock. Climb the wall then scramble up and right to arrive at a small ledge, nut belays.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the corner, making a delicate move right at 12 metres (crux). Then either traverse the break to the arête and follow this to the top, or continue up the corner for six metres then traverse/walk to the arête and so to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
From the Real World belay, traverse three metres left into a steep groove/crack. Follow this on less-than-perfect rock to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 3
A classic and justly popular climb. Start as for Third World. Follow the crackline (peg) for nine metres until a line of holds leads out to the arête on the right. Balance up this with much trepidation to a welcome peg (do not look too closely!). Continue to some superb quartzy pockets and a tape. Move thinly up and left, then go back right to a good resting place above the gorse bush. Go up and over the bulge to a peg; step left to a crack then back right to finish. nine metres of earthy scrambling leads to the top. A rope may need to be pulled through to belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1983
Rating:
Climb the arête direct to join the original route.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 2
Although this route has some fine climbing, it is now more serious since a peg has disappeared. Follow Third World for 12 metres, move right on to the slab and wander up this to the bulge of Deceptive Bends. Pull over this then traverse right for three metres to the arête and finish up a groove.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 3
Another deservedly popular climb, taking the crackline up the centre of the huge pink slab at the left end of the quarry. Scramble easily up to the base of the crackline to start, then follow the crack and make an awkward move over the overlap (peg). Pleasant climbing leads to a large groove in the overhangs (possible belay). After a couple of bridging moves a juicy jamming crack on the left wall is followed to the top. If 45-metre ropes are used it is necessary to pull one through in order to belay.
Grade: 5c,5a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
An intimidating route requiring a cool head. It takes a direct line up the slab left of Third World, then wends its way through the massive roofs. Scramble up to the large sloping ledge below the slab to start.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Delicate climbing leads to a crux at nine metres (nut used six metres up Third World). Belay at the groove.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move three metres left until it is possible to gain a short groove in the overhangs. Ascend this then break out left to join Just Like a Woman: finish up this.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Take the broken groove on the left side of Third World slab until it is possible to traverse left across the white wall to join Just Like a Woman at the crux.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1983-86)
Rating: 0
Follow the groove on the left-hand side of the slab to the roof. Traverse right to the groove of Third World, possible belay. Continue up and traverse right. Finish up Deceptive Bends.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Climb the white wall left of Dream World`s groove, to a peg level with the overlap on Just Like a Woman. Move left to the rib then climb a short crack, moving left slightly to climb the wall above to a peg. Pass this (crux) to an easier finish up a groove. A good if slightly contrived line.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 1
A worthwhile route best approached either by abseil or a hairy scramble in from the left. Climb the corner crack for six metres before trending right to a small ledge and peg. The next moves form the crux; palm the arête and if you do not `barn door` off you will reach the overlap. Go over this and up a short groove (possible belay on the left). Make an exposed traverse right to the arête then go up and over a small overhang to finish up a friable wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start as for Just Like a Woman but continue up the groove to a hard swing left (peg). Continue up a groove to a broken ledge, possible belay. Step left to gain a thin groove which is followed to the top; care needed with suspect rock.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
A truly horrendous route, taking a line up the next obvious groove/slab left of Just Like a Woman. Start at a shallow groove/crack nine metres left of Just Like a Woman; heart-stopping moves on disintegrating rock gain a delightful slab which is followed with much horripilation (mad loud manic laughter an advantage) to finish up a delectable groove.
Grade: 5a,5b,5a,5c,5c | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
A magnificent expedition, girdling the left-hand side of the quarry from left to right.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow Just Like a Woman to the overlap, traverse right (peg) down across the white wall into the groove of Dream World, then go delicately across the Third World slab to a peg belay above the gorse bush on Deceptive Bends.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
After a fight with the gorse bush, traverse right at the same height as the bush to gain Real World, nut belay.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Walk across the slab then go round the corner to make an awkward move across the Saruman groove. Continue at the same level until a wild swing leads into the final steep corner of Cosmic Debris. Nut belay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Make some thin moves across the horizontal break, crossing Comes a Time and swing round the rib to belay on Fall of the House of Usher.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Step down to make an exasperating move (crux) into the groove of Plastic Iceberg (peg). Continue along the horizontal break to finish up the groove just right of Killer Queen.