This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: -1
Above the mound at the right-hand end of the wall some hanging grooves lead to a cornice of tree roots. Climb directly to the overhang which forms a small cave, then enter the groove above its right side and continue to the `cornice` and the top. Looser than it looks (and it looks loose!)
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: -1
The shattered groove where the mound starts to drop down – loose in places.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: -1
Start at the foot of the mound and climb the steep, blunt rib which forms the left side of the shattered groove.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 1
A variation on Izzy the Push. From the good hold in the small cave on Izzy, pull up and right to a higher, slightly smaller cave. Climb the steep wall above (crux) via a good hand jam slot.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1968/1972/1977)
Rating: 2
The route name which we all wish we`d thought of (but only if we`re fans of William Burroughs) and it is just perfect for this, or possibly for any route with a definite crux. Start directly behind the first tree and climb diagonally right to a shallow scoop, then move up into a small cave at three-quarters-height. Step left from the cave, then climb straight to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Takes a direct line between Heavy Metal Kid and Izzy the Push, which is only just independent of these routes. Start just right of block and climb through horizontal breaks, making a long reach for a sharp flake in the centre of the wall. Use this to reach flat holds leading directly to the top. Strenuous.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1972/1975-79)
Rating: 1
Originally pegged as Green Tony. Start at a block just left of the first tree and follow the obvious line of holds more or less direct, passing a small cave near the top.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1987
Rating: 1
Climb the wall one metre left of the block, using a pocket to gain good finger holds, then at five metres traverse right for about two metres to gain Heavy Metal Kid. Continue up this route to the cave, then traverse left and finish as for Exequy.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
A direct on Twisted Sister. After the crux on Twisted Sister make a hard and long move upwards (unprotected). Continue straight up the wall using very spaced horizontal cracks.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
A Red Wall classic, taking a direct line to the right of Nova Express. A long reach comes in useful on the crux and a long neck is helpful if you lead this one on-sight. Despite the name this is no funeral procession! Start two metres left of the block at a small, deep depression virtually at floor level and take a direct line to a serious crux at between five and six metres. Above this, move right to a good hold in the wall (a Friend will protect against a certain crater from higher up) and race up the wall to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1968/1977)
Rating: 2
The most obvious line on Red Wall, but more searching is required to find the easiest way to climb it. Start behind the second tree and climb up for a short way, then follow the obvious line of right-leading depressions.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Start as for Nova Express, but climb directly up via a series of smaller depressions.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
Start directly behind the second block and climb to a small triangular recess, then continue directly up the wall to a fine finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 2
An easier route up this section of the crag, which relies heavily upon other routes. Start three metres to the left of the block on the left of the second tree at a thin right-slanting crack. Climb this to attain a standing position in the obvious triangular niche, then traverse right for two metres into Willy the Fink. Follow this for three metres to the big jug, then traverse right, past Nova Express to finish up Exequy.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 1
Although only the top section of this climb is independent, it is, nevertheless, worthwhile. Follow American Express until, just past the small triangular recess, it is possible to traverse left across a small pillar to the big jug on Essence of Giraffe. Move right into another obvious hole and finish directly up the wall above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 2
Start one metre farther left and three metres right of the small pit, at a depression which marks the foot of a right-leading weakness. Climb this on good holds, then step left to reach the cave directly below a large yew at the top of the crag. From the left side of the cave, move up, then go rightwards to another depression and finish up the wall above at the yew tree.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
This route is now essentially independent of Essence. Start one metre to the left, at a thin, slightly slanting crack. Climb the crack and the wall above to some black rock about two metres left of the cave. Move up and left past the Girdle stance (two pegs), then make a hard move to a cave near the top. Exit on the left side.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent:
Rating:
A variation start, which can be done as a boulder problem in its own right. Start from the right edge of the pit and climb the wall (white streak) to an obvious hole at about 5 metres.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1
From the left side of the pit climb rightwards to a shallow cave at five metres, then continue for a further three metres until it is possible to climb up and slightly left using widely-spaced pockets. Continue up and left to a shallow depression directly below the left side of a tree at the top and finish up the wall above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the bulging wall direct instead of moving left to the shallow depression.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1990
Rating: 0
Follow Limestone John to an undercut pocket at four metres, then make a couple of fingery moves up and left to reach horizontal breaks. Step right and go up via an obvious pinch to join Limestone John, then follow this to the top.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1990
Rating: 0
Take a direct line up the wall starting just left of Limestone John. Climb direct to cracks and make a hard move up to a horizontal break. Further hard moves lead to a standing position in the break. Grovel up the depressions above to finish on good holds up the headwall.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1974/1988)
Rating: 1
Start about one metre to the left at prominent white streaks. Climb the wall immediately left of the streaks, bearing slightly left to a small cave at five metres. Pull up right to a good hold in another depression, then make a hard move up and continue directly to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Keeps to the right just before the small cave, then rejoins the original route at the good in hold in a shallow depression.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
Start just to the left at a shallow cave at head-height. Bold, sustained climbing leads directly up the wall via a deep hole and a spike runner.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Ascend the left edge of the wall starting by an obvious birch tree at the foot of the crag.
Grade: 5c,5b,6a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
One of the best climbs in the area: sustained and well-protected climbing with peg belays (often not in place).
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow Izzy the Push to the large depression then traverse left at this level to the large upper depression of Nova Express and a peg belay.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move left and go down to a traverse-line which leads past the bird-limed hole on Essence of Giraffe to a peg belay.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move up slightly then follow a line of holds to the left, to an awkward move which leads to buckets and the end of the crag.