LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Dummy Wall

  • 55 - Pleasant Wall Variant

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short wall on the right of the dummy wall itself, keeping about one metre left of the deep crack on the right.

  • 56 - Pleasant Wall

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb on to a block at the right side of the dummy wall, then step right and climb a rough wall to the top.

  • 57 - Scraper

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    The crack immediately left of the `dummy wall`.

  • 58 - The Gent

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

    The wall on the left is characterised by three pockets at head height. Start with hands on the two right-hand pockets and climb the wall using tiny flakes (much harder variations are possible about one metre to the right).

  • 59 - Roughneck

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    Start two metres to the left and climb directly to a short vertical runnel at the top.

  • 60 - Rough Crack

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Layback up the next crack.

  • 61 - The Spoon

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Three metres to the left is an obvious smooth scoop. Gain this by a traverse from the right or direct (harder), then finish up a left-slanting crack.

  • 62 - Paddy`s Penance

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the left on the right wall of an undercut arĂȘte. Surmount the bulge by laybacking and continue on side pulls up the steep wall to the top.

  • 63 - Woodpecker

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres farther left and gain, then climb, the crack that splits the upper half of the wall,

  • 64 - Slip Stitch

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Start at the obvious wide crack about 35 metres farther left, about five metres past a large block lying below the path. Climb the crack to the horizontal break, then follow the fluted front of the block above to the top.