LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Fantasy Area

  • 20 - Celtica

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left-slanting flake which rises from the right side of the block.

  • 21 - Taliesin

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 2

    Great climbing with steep moves, but a good landing. Start one metre right of the large block in front of the recess, at the left side of a finger-flake at chest-height. Pull strenuously on to the flake and climb the steep wall direct on flat holds to finish at a good flake.

  • 22 - Merlin

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Climb the right side of the flake, then finish up the wall above.

  • 23 - Rheaed

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    The blunt arête left of the corner is harder than it looks.

  • 24 - Woodbind

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 0

    Ascend the corner.

  • 25 - The Mote of Mark

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    The very thin crack one metre right of the corner.

  • 26 - Caerliol

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre farther right and by using a flake at head-height, gain then climb the crack or the flake on the right.

  • 27 - Celyddon

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    Start immediately to the left of the first big yew. Climb the flake edge and a recess above.

  • 28 - The Dark Stair

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the easy groove behind the big yew. Useful as a DESCENT.

  • 29 - Goddeu

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Start at a tall upstanding flake to the right of the first yew. Climb the wall on good holds.

  • 30 - Et tu Brute

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start as for Stranger Than Fiction and traverse rightwards below the break to the first yew. A higher variation with hands on the break is possible at 5b.