This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Start at the left-hand end of the crag where the first weakness cuts through the roof. Climb up and left through this weakness to a large yew tree near the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
Start at a shallow groove below the obvious roof at the left of the crag. Climb up and left to a pedestal/ledge, then step left and go over the bulge. Ascend the left edge of the slab to finish up a ragged flake crack.
Grade: F7b | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 1
Start five metres to the right and climb the roof direct passing three bolts. [E5 6c ]
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Go straight up to the main overhang on its left-hand side. Reach a hold on the right of the short corner above, then swing on this and finish using flakes. A long reach is an advantage.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Four metres to the left of the cave is a triangular niche at three metres. Climb into this then go up the wall above, finishing to the left of a small overhang.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
On the right is an obvious break in the overhang. Start just to the right of this immediately before a step up on the path and climb a slight rib to the overhang (peg then a small nut on left). Move up left through the roof to gain a small ledge, then either continue left or finish up the corner flake above.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Follow Left Foot Eliminate to the overlap, then step left and surmount the roof at its widest point using an ear of rock on the left. Protection is in Left Foot Eliminate.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0
Climb up to the top of a tiny left-facing corner, level with the niche on Scouse, then step right and finish directly up the wall.
Grade: F6a | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 1
A surprising climb, with the difficulty not where it is expected. Start four metres to the right at the second of two short shallow groove. From the base of this move left to a bolt above the initial bulge, then use an undercut to reach a jug (a poor intermediate hold may be necessary for shorter climbers), power across the roof past another bolt to a bolt just above the roof and a tree belay just above this. [HVS 5b ]
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 2
The striking roof crack above the start of Achilles` Heel is as good as it looks, but unfortunately it is often dirty. Climb the groove to the overlap and bridge uncomfortably over it then move right to below the crack and power up it.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0
From the left side of the cave gain and climb a V-groove and cracks to the top.
Grade: F6a | First Ascent: (1985/1990)
Rating: 1
Start immediately to the right and climb the overhang past two bolts to a finish on good jugs. At the time of writing the bolts are in a poor state. [E2 5c]
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 1
Climb the steep wall behind the obvious large tree and make awkward moves to gain a niche below the crack of Left Foot Eliminate. Move right as for the girdle and finish up an obvious short crack.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
The large overhang between Footsie and Stiletto can be climbed direct at 5c.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 1
Start about three metres right of the tree. Climb the wall to the overhang, step right and climb a short groove on to the hanging slab (this section is hard, but can be avoided on the right). The hanging crack above is `easy when you know how`.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
Start a little farther to the right and find the line of least resistance up the wall, moving right to a projecting tree. Climb the right-hand side of the large flake then make some exciting moves to the right, around the overhang, to easy ground.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 1
A direct line below the finish of Right Foot Eliminate, using a short groove on the lower wall and hidden holds on the bulbous overhang above. Good climbing throughout.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The rock and the protection are rather dubious. Climb the bulging wall just right of Toe and Heel to the girdle break, then climb the shattered right side of the bulbous overhangs via a sort of groove.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The obvious set-back break three metres right of Nonopod.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
A surprising route where the rock improves at the right-hand end of the crag. There is a large overhang, almost a shallow cave; this can be climbed direct (about 5b) or, more easily, by its left edge. Climb the slab to an amenable overlap and continue to the large overhang, split by an obvious crack, which sooner or later reveals its secret.
Grade: 4c,4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 3
An entertaining little girdle, which is full of character.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
The first of the hanging slabs is gained as for Achilles` Heel. Traverse delicately rightwards then awkwardly go round to below the crack of Left Foot Eliminate. Move round resolutely on to the second hanging slab, behind the large tree and cross pleasantly rightwards to belay on the large flake of Right Foot Eliminate. Thoughtful ropework pays dividends on this pitch.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Step down to the tree and traverse below the overhang. Continue at much the same level and grapple briefly with the tree on Athlete`s Foot to gain the slab below the large overhang of Pseudopod. Purists and masochists will continue rightwards to finish up a vile cleft, but the final crack of Pseudopod is altogether a better alternative.