LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Sanction Wall

  • 1 - Sally

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short, thin crack at the left side of the wall, starting partway up the banking.

  • 2 - Teacher`s Crack

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    At the base of the hollow are two obvious cracks. This is the first of these.

  • 3 - Hell`s Bells

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    A demanding and very sustained test piece. Climb the second crack past a powerful undercut move at mid-height.

  • 4 - White Horse

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The next crack. A bold lead and with no gear until the crux has been passed!

  • 5 - Haig

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Start at the left side of the cutaway roof. Climb to the roof and pass it on its left side to finish up a crack with one hard move.

  • 6 - Johnnie Walker

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    The crack on the right-hand side of the square-cut overhang.

  • 7 - Long John

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    The crack which lead directly to a landing below the right arête of this wall.

  • 8 - Neat Whisky

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    One metre left of the obvious arête. An interesting problem up the wall via an obvious pocket.

  • 9 - Dimple

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the right of the arête and go diagonally up leftwards to the top of the arête.

  • 10 - Mort Subite

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Just left of the arête of Glenfiddich, climb a thin crack, passing the overlap with extreme difficulty. RP protection.