LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Graveyard

  • 184 - Coffin Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    From the wide grassy ledge in the top corner of the quarry, climb the crack in the left wall.

  • 185 - Green Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    The aptly-named chimney starting from the angle of the large ledge.

  • 186 - Chance Encounters

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    Just to the right (peg) a direct line up the small diamond-shaped buttress.

  • 187 - Susan

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The crack which slants right from the back of the ledge.

  • 188 - La Morte

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Start below a sandy cave and climb ragged cracks, passing the cave on the left, and continue to a ledge. Finish up the wall above via a small pod.

  • 189 - Undertaker`s Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Traverse right from the wide grass ledge to the base of a hand-jam crack. Climb this to a niche below an overhang (peg ). Leave the niche to the left then finish up the short wall above.

  • 190 - Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    The impressive wall left of Soixante-neuf. Gain a ledge in the wall left of Soixante Neuf either direct from the ground, or by a traverse in from the left above the cave. Clip the poor peg above the ledge (hard and dangerous if you are less than average stature) then step left and finish direct.

  • 191 - Soixante-neuf

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 1

    Gain a niche and finger crack, then go up this to a ledge on the arête. Finish direct or gain the ledge on the arête from the front face via a mantel.

  • 192 - Graveyard Direct

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    Climb the obvious chimney in the centre of the wall to a ledge, then finish up the hanging chimney.

  • 193 - Graveyard Ordinary

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    From the initial chimney go up ledges on the right, and finish up a narrow chimney.

  • 194 - Bolton Buttress

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 0

    Just to the right is a short triangular buttress. Climb this, then step across the wall at an obvious ledge and finish up Graveyard Direct.

  • 195 - Mary

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The layback corner on the right, then finish up the short blocky corner.

  • 196 - Saturation Point

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    The narrow face one and a half metres right of the corner.

  • 197 - Coffin Digger`s Spade

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    Farther right is a V-shaped fault filled with blocks, with a tree and a sandy cave below it. Gain the cave from the left, then climb over a doubtful block to The Spade, and pass behind it to finish on its left.

  • 198 - Catalepsy

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Just to the right is a thin crack. Climb this to a ledge, then continue via a sloping ledge on the wall above to the right side of The Spade. Finish over the blocks above.

  • 199 - Neddy`s Walk

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Climb a short groove behind a bush to a ledge, then move up a series of ledges and finish by a mantel over the overhanging wall on the right.

  • 200 - Crash and Burn

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Four metres to the right follow the curving crack then finish up the leaning jam-crack on the left.

  • 201 - Ape

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Six metres right ascend the wide crack.

  • 202 - Overhanging Weetabix

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    On the right is a small buttress with a double overhang. Climb the crack on its left-hand side to the break, then step left and surmount the roof by a thin crack.

  • 203 - The Overhang

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    Follow Overhanging Weetabix to the break, then traverse right and finish up the arête.

  • 204 - Horror Arête

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Go over the nose on the right by a gymnastic move, and finish up the arête above as for The Overhang.

  • 205 - Avoidance

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the left and traverse left to finish up the arête of The Overhang.

  • 206 - Chocky

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    On the right of the buttress climb the chock-filled corner.

  • 207 - Tombstoned

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1965
    Rating: 0

    Originally known as the Girdle of the Graveyard. A traverse of The Graveyard is possible, the line is obvious but lacks any sort of appeal.