This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4c,5a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 1
A two pitch route.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start just right of The Corner. Climb up and right to good holds on the arête, swing round this and make an awkward mantel on to the belay ledge of Fingernail.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Step back left and go up to a ledge (peg ). Attain a standing position on this then either finish rightwards or via a ramp on the left.
Grade: 4b,4a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
A two pitch route.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Right again is an overhung corner. From the base of this move up and right until the arête can be gained and followed to a large belay ledge.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the short corner above the belay, then climb easily to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Takes the overhung corner direct and finishes up the thin cracks just left of the belay.
Grade: 4a,- | First Ascent: -1962
Rating: 2
A traditional climb, which crosses steep rock without too much difficulty.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
3 metres right of the arête is an iron hook set in the wall at five metres. Climb up to it by the crack on its left, then continue up and leftwards to a spacious belay ledge and an in-situ peg belay.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
Step right around the short arête on to a steep slab, climb diagonally right to an obvious weakness, and follow this to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
As for Fingernail but at the hook step right, then climb the steep wall via a crack and finish easily.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 2
The top section of this climb is thought-provoking, but all the holds are there. Halfway up Eastern Terrace is a shallow, wide-angled groove. Start directly below this. Climb up slightly right into a short groove and climb ledges to gain Eastern Terrace. Enter the shallow groove above and follow it boldly to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1963
Rating: 0
Just to the right is another right-leading overhang. Layback round this and continue straight up to the terrace, then climb the deep crack above.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Start just to the right of Spider Crack and climb directly to Eastern Terrace. Follow the thin crack left of Spider Crack to finish.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 0
The obvious line of ledges which splits the buttress diagonally from right to left.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
A bold proposition up the blank slab left of Cameo, with the crux just where you do not want it: at the top! Since the peg went, it is advisable to get a side runner in Spider Crack. Climb Cameo for eight metres then move out left and climb a shallow corner, Continue up and right to finish directly up the wall on small holds, avoiding easier possibilities on the left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 3
First done with just two peg runners, one of which was an old bicycle crank! The pegs have long since gone, but despite improvements in protection it still feels very committing near the top. Start two metres right of Eastern Terrace and climb past breaks to a ledge below a thin crack. Follow the crack past a tiny groove to easier ground to finish.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
The rugositied wall right of Cameo direct, finishing up a thin crack. A runner low down in Cameo provides protection.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the right, below a shallow groove at the top of the wall (Christeena). Climb the wall directly to a small overlap (poor nuts), go left for two metres to a crack then exit via this.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1962
Rating: 2
Gain the large ledge on the end of The Prow. Move up left to a jug (peg) and mantel on to this. Step left into a groove and finish easily up this. Entry into the groove can be intimidating, but it is more straightforward than it at first appears.