This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
The striking left arête of the Inside Face gives very thin climbing. Most leaders resort to side runners.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1963
Rating: 3
Two metres to the right of the arête is a wide crack; climb this to a break and niche. Go up and right into a small alcove, then make hard moves to the top. After an easy start, the angle of the wall starts to tell and the top section of this route can be very strenuous. Dawn Left-hand (E2, 5c): A harder alternative is to climb the shallow groove on the left above the break.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (Pre-1983)
Rating: 1
Start just to the right, and climb a very thin blind crack using old peg holes, then traverse right along the undercut flake to finish up the crack just left of the corner of Ann. Side runner in Dawn.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1963
Rating: 2
Although it certainly does not live up to its name as an `eliminate`, the climbing is nevertheless interesting. Six metres right of the arête climb the short groove to a ledge, then traverse right along the breaks until it is possible to finish easily up the ridge of Rambling Route.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
Good climbing, good protection and a sunny aspect on Wilton`s most unusual feature makes this probably the most popular route of its grade in the quarry. Right of Eliminate is a short arête, climb the peg crack on its right to a ledge then follow the steep groove above using both cracks, or (harder) just layback the right crack.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 3
Start just under two metres to the right of Ann and climb a blind crack with a long stretch to reach the break of Eliminate. Step right and take the vandalised line of chipped holds up the wall above. Sadly it provides designer climbing at its best.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 2
Farther right is a very short chimney, followed by a groove. Climb the chimney by laybacking or bridging, then from the ledge finish up the groove or the ridge on the left. Traditional quarry climbing at its best.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 1
To the right again is a groove which turns into a wide chimney. Follow this to the top, or (more usual) finish on the left.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 2
An excellent way to get to the top of The Prow, with the added interest at the infamous rocking block. Follow the line of holds leading left across the next wall from the corner, to a rocking block. Finish up the crack and over a small overhang. A direct start is possible (5c), whilst the problem just to the left, moving right into Flywalk is 6b.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1968)
Rating: 0
The corner in which Flywalk starts, exiting right at the top.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The flying arête right of Flytrap, which is started on the left and finished on the right past a series of dynamic pinch moves. Slightly easier (6b) if climbed on the left side of the arête.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2000
Rating:
Climb the centre of the wall on the left of Scimitar via two small pockets and poor holds.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 0
The crescent-shaped crack rising right into the corner.
Grade: 4c,4b,5c,5a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
A girdle of The Prow.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
As for Peanuts pitch 1.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Traverse easily right (many variations possible) to belay on the large ledge on the end of The Prow.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Swing right, around the arête and into Dawn. Place a high side runner and traverse right along the obvious break (crux) to join Ann at her ledge. Nut belay.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow the traverse of Eliminate and finish up that route.