This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 2
If you can only just make it on London Wall, you will fail on this ferocious finger crack. Originally pegged as The Shakes. The thin crack right of Ego Trip, rising out of a shattered sentry-box. Initially gained by a rising traverse from the belay of Frightful Fred.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 2
A good E5 at the lower end of the grade. Strenuous and sustained with adequate protection. From the large ledge on Frightful Fred climb a vague groove to a small overlap on the right. Pass this and fight up the crack above (2 pegs) to a second overlap; move left under this overlap and finish direct, or take the overlap direct.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Bold and forceful climbing up the steep wall right of Josser. From the belay ledge, climb direct, passing a tiny overlap (crux) and peg (not in place), and on to the exposed wall above. Trend leftwards (peg) at the top. Significantly harder for the short.
Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 2
A good introduction to the climbing in this part of Wilton, providing plenty of variety, with nothing too difficult, but nevertheless, not for the faint-hearted!
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Ascend the wide chimney at the left of The Pit, then move right on to a large ledge, Peg belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
From the right of the series of ledges, mantel on to the lowest of two ledges on the left wall of a shallow groove and move up to a peg, then swing up to a ledge on the right. Either, climb the right of a slab to a triangular ledge and make an awkward step left to finish, or, step awkwardly round to the left and climb the wall on the left by a series of ledges, then traverse back and finish over several small ledges. The latter is a little harder, but is a very artificial line.
Grade: 6a,4c | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Previously known as Fearful Frank.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:
The thin crack just left of Bohemian is not very worthwhile.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
As for Frightful Fred, then continue straight up the groove over several small ledges to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
The crackline just right leads up through a hanging groove to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 3
Good holds and good gear lure one ever farther up this impending groove. An excellent pitch. Climb the broken crack which starts three metres left of the large sandy cave, on poor rock to a possible belay on the left of the cave. Continue up the obvious overhanging crack in the groove above.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 2
A completely free version of Adrenalin Direct, taking the superb parallel line under Gigantic, but not quite as hard. Start in the large corner below the sandy cave and climb easily up the wall trending slightly left to the cave (possible belay). Launch out and go up the crack (two pegs) until a wild slap gives good holds and a Quadcam 2 placement. Excellent and pumpy moves leftwards past two further pegs lead to Adrenalin at some undercuts, then finish up this.
Grade: 4c,5a,5a,4b,4b,4c,- | First Ascent: -1965
Rating: 2
A sustained and interesting traverse, with some impressive positions, which crosses virtually all the best climbs from Dandelion Groove to Blackout.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb Dandelion Groove for nine metres to a ledge on the right, then foot-traverse this rightwards to a peg belay, three metres left of Remembrance Corner.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Gain the corner and climb round the arête to a peg. Descend slightly to the sandy belt and traverse awkwardly rightwards to a small corner. Step down into a small cave and go down again to belay on the iron spike of Patience.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Regain the horizontal break and follow it rightwards to join Patience at the foot of its ramp; follow this ramp to a belay on Western Terrace.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Reverse Western Terrace to its initial rib and climb down this until it is possible to move right, along a series of unstable flakes, to gain Frightful Fred at the top of its chimney. Follow that route to its peg belay.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb Frightful Fred to an obvious ledge on the right, overlooking Bohemian. Peg belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Descend diagonally right (peg) and enter a loose and sandy cave. Leave this cave (thankfully) by its right-hand end and hand-traverse along the horizontal break to Knuckleduster. Continue this traverse around the blunt arête to gain and climb a short groove (as Thin Air) to the huge ledge on Knuckleduster. Peg belay.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
Either continue as for Plenty of Zzzzs, or (4c) climb the short thin crack in the wall above the peg belay and move right to a finish up Blackout pitch two.
Grade: 4c,5b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 2
An extension to the Grey and White Girdle, but it can also be done as a route in its own right. Some interesting climbing, but this stops abruptly at Kettle Crack, after which it is necessary either to enter `black spot country` or to lower off. Start on Blackout at pitch seven of Grey and White.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
As for Grey and White, but at the top of the short crack, traverse right over ledges to reverse the crux slab of Blackout and a belay under the roof of Clapped Out.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
From the roof on Master Spy swing right into Wipe Out. Move right across the wall of Black Mamba, and on to a ledge and peg on Shaggy Dog. Go right across Kettle Crack to a final stiff move to reach a bolt belay. Either abseil off (preferable), or go right to finish up Fall Out Chimney, (lethal). Whilst the block above the bolt seems stable, it is inadvisable to hang on the rusting iron bar which appears to support it!