LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Set Back

  • 33 - P.C.2

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 1

    Three metres to the left of the arête climb the thin crack direct.

  • 34 - Fool`s Paradise

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the left climb the broken groove for six metres to a ledge, then finish up a short wall.

  • 35 - The Other Man`s Alternative

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the next crack to a ledge. Traverse three metres right and finish up a short corner.

  • 36 - Juggernaut

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb a pedestal and wall to a break, then ascend the buttress above via a niche on the face and finish direct. Poor protection on the crux.

  • 37 - Hit by a Lorry

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb to the break on Juggernaut, then traverse four metres left and finish as for Moorland Tooth Highway.

  • 38 - Resolute Roc

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The flake crack two metres to the left is followed to a break, then climb the steep wall above using a crack to finish.

  • 39 - Moorland Tooth Highway

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack on the right of a detached tooth to a break, then finish up the corner. Loose.

  • 40 - Gully Climb

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Start immediately to the left and climb left over blocks to finish up the gully.

  • 41 - Gully Variant

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Gain the gully via the corner crack on the left.

  • 42 - Mythical Madonna

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    Gain the large pedestal on the right via a crack on its left, then make a hard finish directly up a crack in the nose.

  • 43 - Las Vegas Turnaround

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    On the other side of the rib is a crack. Climb this and the corner on its left.

  • 44 - Red Leicester

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The steep, pod-shaped crack in the narrow wall just to the left.

  • 45 - Cheddar

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    In the centre of the wall on the left is a crack. Climb this directly over a small overlap at the top to an airy finish.

  • 46 - Camembert

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the left and follow leaning, twin cracks.

  • 47 - Lead Penguin

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The next arête is followed directly. Peg (not in-situ).