This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
The right-hand corner, with a tree at mid-height.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 1
Follow The Corner, then step left just below the tree and ascend a crack to a ledge. Continue directly up the wall on small holds (peg).
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 1
Start three metres to the left of Heretic. Move round the overhang on good holds and go up to an in-situ peg, then continue to a higher horizontal break and traverse left to a good resting ledge. Move up right to another ledge and climb a crack to the top of a huge flake. The thin crack above leads with increasing difficulty (peg) to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974/1976-77)
Rating: 0
Just right of an overhanging groove is a block-overhang. Climb this using a thin crack, to a ledge on the left. Move up to a second ledge, then step left and climb the corner crack above to finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating:
Climb the overhanging groove direct to the corner.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 2
A bold companion route to Evil Crystal, which takes the steep wall and bulge to the right of the cave stance on Evil Crystal. Two metres left of the overhanging groove of Mixed Veg a steep and very shallow corner is capped by two small overhangs. Climb the corner (peg) to pass the second overhang on its left (crux). Mantel on the ledge and ascend the wall and crack on the right of the cave to gain a large flake. Continue upwards, then follow the obvious diagonal line of flakes and ledges on the left, to finish at the same point as Evil Crystal.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
An alternative finish at the same grade is possible by climbing slightly upwards from the large flake, then moving slightly right to finish at a thin crack. A direct finish has also been climbed, but is not recommended, because of loose blocks at the top.
Grade: 5b,4c | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 2
A must for the first time visitor to Evil Wall. Start six metres to the left, below a niche/cave. Better done in one pitch.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Up the flake crack until it peters out, and continue to a poor stance in a cave.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Follow the crack on the left to a ledge, then go up the wall (peg) and climb flakes to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 2
A worthy companion to Evil Crystal, with some technical, but well protected, moves to gain the niche. Start just left of Evil Crystal. Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a small ledge. Gain the niche above with difficulty and finish directly to a small tree.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 1
Four metres to the left is a flake crack. Climb this to a break at half-height, then climb the groove above to a small overhang three metres from the top. Move up and left to finish. Two in-situ pegs.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 1
Start six metres to the left of Escharchado and climb blocks and a thin crack to gain a groove. Follow the groove to a sloping ledge on the left and finish up a short wall.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1974/1996)
Rating: 0
Free climbs the aid route previously known as The Rurper. Start just right of Return to Fantasy at an old ring peg below an overhang. Follow a thin crackline to the overhang, then continue up the steep wall and thin crack above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 0
The left-hand side of Evil Wall is bound by two large corners with a large sloping ledge at the base of the right-hand one. Between the two corners there is a prominent arête with a small overhang two metres above the sloping ledge. Start just left of the overhang and climb the niche/crack to join the thin straight crack above, passing a small ledge near the top. Escape with care above the main grassy ledge system.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 1
Start in the corner on the left with a sloping ledge at six metres. Climb the corner to the ledge and gain the crack above. Follow this with increasing difficulty to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 1
The route takes the obvious large corner which rises from the large sloping ledge at the left side of Evil Wall. Gain the ledge (possible belay) and climb the corner. A recent rockfall over the top of this route has made it difficult to exit. Therefore, it would be best to abseil from the top of the corner.