LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Grooved Wall

  • 156 - Big Mouth

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The broken cracks in the steep wall right of the first corner, starting at a small triangular niche.

  • 157 - Sham `69

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 1

    Climbs the first corner which has some excellent hand-jams.

  • 158 - Shudabindun

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Two metres to the left is a rotten arête with a large slabby scoop to its left. Climb the scoop to a very thin crack, then follow this to an easier finish.

  • 159 - That`s Life

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 1

    Climb the next corner and finish on the right at the top.

  • 160 - The Cutter

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The third corner, starting just to the right, then climb to the overhang with a drill-hole in it and step right to finish.

  • 161 - Guillotine

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 3

    The finger crack which opens into a peapod-like feature contains a wedged block at its top. A classic struggle, but low in its grade.

  • 162 - Chopper Chimney

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The crack/chimney behind the detached tower two metres to the left. Move right up the blunt arête to finish.

  • 163 - Blue Strawberry

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the outside face of the detached tower.

  • 164 - Sparkin` Bush

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    The `cleaned` narrow face four metres to the left. Surmount the initial bulge, to place good protection in the left crack, then continue up the face on hidden holds. A surprisingly good route.

  • 165 - New Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The right-leaning chimney/groove in the centre of the next wall.

  • 166 - Black Arm

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The deep corner groove that starts three metres farther left.

  • 167 - Cutting Edge

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Just round the arête on the left there is a prominent, square-cut overhang at mid-height, with a wide crack on its right. Scramble over ledges and finish up the wide crack.

  • 168 - Walking on Glass

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    An excellent climb, which gives strenuous and technical, but well protected, climbing. Climb to the prominent, square-cut overhang, step left on to a block, then climb directly up to a peg at a small overlap. Undercut the break rightwards to another peg and finish direct, slapping wildly up the right arête.

  • 169 - Vlad the Impaler

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The blocky groove on the left.

  • 170 - All in the Mind

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Five metres to the left a detached tower forms a deep V-groove on its right. Climb the wall to a ledge below the V-groove, then step right to gain the arête and follow this to the top. Worthwhile.

  • 171 - Headspin Cleft

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start up All in the Mind, then continue straight up the V-groove above.

  • 172 - Letter-box

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Three metres to the left. Pleasant climbing up the front face of the detached pillar. A problem start leads to good holds up the wide face of the detached tower.

  • 173 - The Creaking Fossil

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the blunt right arête of the V-groove via an unattractive crack.

  • 174 - Aethelred Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Climb the deep V-groove using the wide crack in the left wall.

  • 175 - Aethelred

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    Climb the poorly-protected left arête of the V-groove.

  • 176 - Trumpton

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the chimney crack immediately right of the next corner, then step left and finish up the corner, past a small tree.