LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Graffiti Wall

  • 1 - Lucia

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack/arête of the first short buttress.

  • 2 - Sofia

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 0

    Six metres to the left, climb the arête with a shot-hole at its base.

  • 3 - Spud

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 0

    Ten metres left, and right of the pegged arête and a bolt lower-off, are two cracks in the wall. The left-hand one is climbed, passing a niche before stepping left to the bolts.

  • 4 - The Snurcher

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 2

    A pumpy clip-up. Technical, sustained and ideal for lost sport climbers. Follow the pegged arête past the bolts and don`t get lost.

  • 5 - Scribbles

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    To the left is another sharp arête, which terminates at four metres. Two metres farther left is a black slabby arête. Climb the slab following the ledges until it is possible to step left into a shaky finish.

  • 6 - Egerton Cavern

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the left is a deep chimney which can easily be missed. Ascend this until forced left on to a ledge. Step up and go over the chimney to another ledge to finish up Scribbles.

  • 7 - Egerton Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The next arête has a shot-hole at its base. Climb the short crack above it to a poor top. Take care with the wall at the top.

  • 8 - J.O.B.

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    30 metres to the left is a pool with a steep wall on its right. Start four metres right of an arête and climb the wall past three drill-holes.

  • 9 - Grooved Out

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The crack and groove immediately to the right of the arête.

  • 10 - Dragon Lady

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Climb the middle of the wall left of the arête to a large ledge, then go up the blunt arête in the middle of the face.

  • 11 - Unseasonal Weather

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Follow twin cracks in the centre of the next wall to a small overlap. Steep moves then lead to a finishing chimney.

  • 12 - Pilgrim`s Progress

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 1

    Gain the left side of the bottom ledge on Unseasonal Weather and continue just right of the arête to the final jutting overhang. Then swing round the arête and finish diagonally left.

  • 13 - After the Gold Rush

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 1

    Climb the centre of the steep wall left of Pilgrim`s Progress, then move right to a tree runner and go back left through a bulge. Finish up the jutting overhang on the right arête.

  • 14 - Graffiti Corner

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The long blocky corner to the left.

  • 15 - Stolen Goods

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 0

    The clean arête above a slight rise in the quarry floor is tackled on its right-hand side to the roof (peg), where a swing round the arête leads to an easier finish straight up.

  • 16 - Gollum

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The centre of the problematic wall left of Stolen Goods is climbed to a slot and a good runner. Tricky moves up and right lead to a juggy finish. Harder for the short. The top crux can be snivellingly avoided on the left.

  • 17 - Socialist Millionaire

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the corner to a large ledge, then follow stepped ledges rightwards to finish.