LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Top End Climbs

  • 99 - Delicatessen

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    The small slab at the right-hand side of the prow.

  • 100 - The Prow

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The sharply-pointed prow is climbed direct. How now bold prow!

  • 101 - Halt

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The crack immediately to the left of the prow.

  • 102 - Blurt

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the blunt nose strenuously.

  • 102a - Burp

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2002
    Rating:

    Just left to a mantle finish.(More of a variant bur good.)

  • 103 - Blurt Variant

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Start at a crack on the left and make a hard move, then move right to finish at the top of Blurt.

  • 104 - Fineline

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the next crack directly to the top avoiding the obvious easy cop-out leftwards.

  • 105 - Diane

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the awkward, polished corner.

  • 106 - Dezertion

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    The undercut arête just left of the corner; short but very sharp!

  • 107 - Dezerit

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the undercut `desbritt` crack on the left of the arête to a tiny niche.

  • 108 - Boopers

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 2

    Climb direct up the centre of the wall on the left.

  • 109 - Bitto

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Start up the left side of the wall then climb rightwards along the thin horizontal crack to finish up Dezertion.

  • 110 - Beano

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The left arête is climbed via an awkward crack, and avoiding the large jug on the arête. Finish in a rather comic way!

  • 111 - Grass Groove

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The rightward-curving crack on the left.

  • 112 - Dezis Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Start from a block and climb the centre of the next wall direct.

  • 112a - Two Little Nippers

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    A direct line up the bulging wall from the block on Dezis Wall and the flake at the start of Tiptoe.

  • 113 - Tiptoe

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Traverse the next slab from right to left (the top must not be used) and continue to the far corner.

  • 114 - Slab Direct

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the exact centre of the slab to a ledge and broken wall above.

  • 115 - Short Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    The corner on the left.

  • 116 - Green Wall

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    From a pedestal three metres left of the corner, climb the wall above.

  • 117 - Bunnie`s Dilemma

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The broken, slanting groove on the wall left of the slab.

  • 118 - Obscenity

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 2

    From the foot of Bunnie`s Dilemma climb the wall direct.

  • 119 - Pocket Hole Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Pass the obvious pocket to reach the rib.

  • 120 - The Pock

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Traverse the wall low from Bunnie`s Dilemma to Pocket Hole Wall.

  • 121 - Magic Circle

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    An eliminate line, but in a horizontal dimension. Around the rib is a tiny amphitheatre of slabby rock. Starting at the right edge of this, traverse left without using the top for hands, to finish at the left arête; good fun.

  • 122 - Test Piece

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    The clean overhanging block left of Magic Circle. Grasp the top and mantel, numerous variations being possible (backwards, etc).

  • 123 - Somersault

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    Go directly over the jutting roof.

  • 124 - Warlon`s Wall

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    The steep wall just to the left.