LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Ash Pit Slabs

  • 62 - Little Man

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The first crack to the left of the arĂȘte.

  • 63 - Crooked Crack

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    The next crack.

  • 64 - Gullible`s Travels

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1983-86)
    Rating: 0

    The overlap and short wall between Crooked Crack and Way Down, without using either.

  • 65 - Way Down

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall via the left side of a small overlap. This is (but isn`t) the way down!

  • 66 - Vertigo

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    The next crack.

  • 67 - Inferno

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Twin cracks then a wall to finish.

  • 68 - Dragnet

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    The next crack, passing on the right of a small overhang.

  • 69 - Haskit

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    The forked cracks in the wall just to the left.

  • 70 - Layback

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the crack on the left into a short niche before the top.

  • 71 - Hank`s Wall

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 2

    A strict problem up the wall between Layback and Parr`s Crack, avoiding holds on both those routes.

  • 71a - Alana

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating:

    Climb the wall between Haskitt and Layback, without recourse to either.

  • 72 - Parr`s Crack

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1948-49)
    Rating: 2

    The next crack and slight groove. In the immediate post-Second World War years this was the ultimate problem. It is still good value.

  • 73 - Pigswill

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: (1983-86)
    Rating: 0

    The wall between Parr`s Crack and Parabola. If this has been climbed then `pigs will` fly! was a quote at the time, but it has had several ascents.

  • 74 - Parabola

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 2

    Follow the flake leftwards to its end, then arc back right across the wall on small holds to the top of Parr`s Crack.

  • 75 - Parabola Direct

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    Climb direct to the left end of the flake, then continue up the crack above by hard moves.

  • 76 - The Chimney

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    The wide chimney crack immediately to the right of the corner.

  • 77 - Wibble

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The corner itself gives a foretaste (hint) of Black Adder to come!

  • 78 - Nexus

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 1

    Excellent steep climbing up the wall on the left on good holds.

  • 79 - Ash Pit Slab

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 2

    Go up the clean arĂȘte by a series of ledges that lead slightly left.

  • 80 - Ash Pit Traverse

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    From the ledge on Ash Pit Slab go left and gain the sloping slab below the overhang. At its end step down (crux) and continue left to easier ground.

  • 81 - Digitation

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 2

    The centre of the slab left of Ash Pit Slab, with plenty of `you can`t use that` and sometimes a sandy finish.

  • 82 - Fraud

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    Start up Digitation, then climb the slab on the left using chipped holds. The same line can be followed without using the chipped holds at 6a.

  • 83 - Analogue

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    The next crack, just right of an overlap.

  • 84 - Directissima

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969/pre-1948)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall on the left, going over a small overlap. This route is getting much trickier as it becomes more polished.

  • 85 - Degree Crack

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    The crack that passes the left edge of the overlap.

  • 86 - Scraper

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    A slightly more direct line from the foot of Degree Crack.

  • 87 - Hopper

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    Start just to the left and climb first slightly leftwards, then back right at the top.

  • 88 - Corn Mantel

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall on the left, with an interesting mantel to start.

  • 89 - Unjust

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    The blunt nose either using two small chipped holds or by a long reach for a poor pinch. A blinkers route that avoids the tempting large holds on either side.

  • 90 - Arur

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1948)
    Rating: 0

    From a slightly higher level, climb the dirty crack to the right of a nose.

  • 91 - The Nose

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Climb over the jutting prow from the left.

  • 92 - Rambler

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the little slab to a ledge, then go rightwards up the scoop above.

  • 93 - Climber and Rambler

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Ascend the crack on the left to join Rambler.

  • 94 - Wall Climb

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1950s)
    Rating: 0

    The wall immediately to the left. Desperate if holds on the two adjacent routes are strictly avoided.

  • 95 - Noddy`s Crack

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 1

    The thin crack on the left.

  • 96 - Groovy

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    The flaky grooveline just to the left.

  • 97 - Apple

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The dirty rock at the left of the wall. In other words it`s a rotten apple!

  • 98 - The Thrutch

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    The isolated problem wall just to the left of the main rocks.

  • 98a - Tulip

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -2002
    Rating: 0

    From extreme right-hand side of top end, traverse right to tiptoe without using top.