This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The prominent crack at the right-hand end of the long low wall. Dirty finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the left at an obvious sentry-box and follow a direct line to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Start slightly left of the large tree which grows above the centre of the wall, and climb a blunt rib to a ledge at three metres, then move up and right to finish through the obvious break.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Start left of a tree-filled corner at an obvious finger-crack in the arête. Climb this for six metres, then move left and climb the wall direct over an overlap.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The steep corner groove on the left. Finish direct or on the left.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1990
Rating: 1
The arête on the right of the orange wall. Climb the arête directly to a ledge above mid-height. Finish more easily at a small tree.
Grade: 5c,4c | First Ascent: (1976-79)
Rating: 2
In the Sixties the first moves on this route were one of the major problems at Anglezarke and devious means were used to reach the natural traverse line. These are not now needed and the combination of the mantelshelf start, a steep wall and an impressive hand-traverse make this a great first pitch. Start one metre left of the arête, at a small ledge about two metres off the ground: Master`s Ledge.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Mantel on to the ledge, then climb straight up using flake holds on the left to gain a small ledge below the horizontal break. Step up and hand-traverse left along the break for four metres to Sheppey, then continue for another six metres until it is possibleto step down onto a pedestal belay.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Ascend a little, then go easily left and finish up the deep corner of Elder Groove.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1999)
Rating:
A counter-traverse which starts up Turkish Delight, then traverses right along the horizontal break to finish up the final arête of Flyer.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
Rating: 0
Start on the vague pillar just right of Sheppey, and climb up and right to a peg (on Traumatic Eversion). Go directly over the small overlap then continue to a tree belay.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
One metre left is a steep, peg-scarred crack. Climb this past (long reaches) a small ledge at two metres to a ledge above the horizontal break, then finish up the corner and crack on the left.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 1
Start just to the left and climb a right-leading, blind flake to the break, then swing out left to holds which lead to a pocket and a peg. Finish direct. Protection can be found provided some good ropework is employed. An easier start is possible at 5a, if the flake on the left is used at the bottom.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0
Follow Storm to the horizontal break, then surmount the overlap on the right (peg) and continue diagonally rightwards until it is possible to finish up Sheppey.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
Pleasant, well-protected climbing on good jugs, which provides a good introduction to the easier climbs at Anglezarke. Climb the prominent pedestal flake then a fine crackline to a large ledge. Step round to the left and go through the break in the overhangs to a good stance. Finish up the groove above.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
A direct line up the crack which bounds the pedestal flake on its left, then after the overhang finish up the final groove of Storm. The route contains very little independent climbing.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1969
Rating: 0
The vague weakness 11/2 metres left of the prominent flake, finishing direct.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start just left of Kaibab. Climb its parallel groove system to a grass ledge then traverse left to finish up Elder Groove.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Start two metres to the left and climb a blunt nose diagonally leftwards to a ledge, then climb the vertical corner crack with a tree stump in it.