This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
Farther left a prominent finger sticks out at six metres. Climb the short hanging chimney below this and on its right, mount the finger,then step right over the chimney to a small ledge and finish direct.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Climb the finger from the left and mantel on to its end, then go straight up by a crack.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Starting on the left, climb to the finger, step left and finish up a short blocky crack.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1962
Rating: 2
A pleasant but testing route up the centre of the broken wall on the right of the Tower.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start as for Glister Wall, but step left into the thin groove in the wall and climb this to finish just right of Samarkand.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
A direct start, takes the lower wall bravely direct past two old bolt holes, to join Give Thanks at the groove.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 2
A classic route that has stood the test of time and is justifiably popular with VS leaders. The crack which limits the Tower on its right. Finish direct using the crack and holds in the steep wall on the left, or, more easily to the right.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start just left of Samarkand at a thin crack below the small overhang. Difficult moves lead over the overhang, then continue with the right hand on the arête, until a rest at a good hold near Fool`s Gold and some gear (a side runner protects the start). Move back to the arête and make committing moves to a small ledge. Continue as for Fool`s Gold until a final hard move left at the top of the arête, where Fool`s Gold goes right.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1969
Rating: 1
The awesome hanging crack in the front face of the Golden Tower, then the bold right arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb to the ledge at mid-height on the Tower, via a brutal, hanging groove near its right edge.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the right arête to a point at mid-height in the upper wall. Move rightwards around the arête and continue up the wall above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Start just left of Fool`s Gold and climb the thin crack (runner in Golden Tower) and wall above on spaced holds (peg not in situ) to the belay ledge of Golden Tower; finish up that route.
Grade: 5a,5c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 3
This is undoubtedly the best known route at Anglezarke and the first ascent did much to popularise quarry climbing in the late Sixties. Though it is at the lower limit of its grade, it is nevertheless a memorable climb and when the sun reflects from the golden rock, the climbing is positively idyllic. It is described here in two pitches though it is probably better done in one runout.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start in the small cave at the left edge of the Tower and follow the jamming crack just right of the arête to a ledge. Step right to a nut belay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the crack which splits the wall above. Easily protectable.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 3
Follow Golden Tower to the ledge then climb the crack just right of the left arête by a series of layback and finger jamming moves. A varied and sustained pitch.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 2
Follow Please Lock me Away to the break of Lucky Strike. Move right (peg) and boldly attack the wall just left of the arête, on spaced finger edges, to a lo..o..ng reach and a poor peg. Climb the wall above finishing just left of the arête. Fail to clip the peg at your peril!
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 3
A more sustained variant to Septic Think Tank. The start requires some degree of levitation to get off the ground and is the site of many a slide down the grass slope. Climb the arête on its left until the break is reached. Continue upwards using the blocks on the right, until a faint horizontal crack can be reached on the left. Traverse up and left until the break and pegs of Septic Think Tank can be reached then continue as for Septic Think Tank.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 2
A wonderful route, one of Lancashire`s finest, with a puzzling crux low down and a brilliant, sustained upper crack. The move right to gain the flake requires a gymnastic reach unique for gritstone quarries. Climb up to the left-hand end of the undercut flake and follow it rightwards (peg) to the break. Climb the crack above to a ledge and finish on small holds.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent:
Rating: 0
A direct start that takes the faint crack and surmounts the overlap to join the parent route on the undercut flake.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 3
Start as for Please Lock Me Away but at the flake climb the hairline crack above, directly to the break. Move slightly rightwards and continue up the technical wall finishing direct. Three pegs. A very sustained route.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Climb Klondyke to the overlap then move out right on to the wall and traverse across to finish as for Septic Think Tank.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 2
Crack climbing at its very best. After a searing start, the difficulties relent only to return with a vengeance on the high crux. Halfway up the earthy slope on the left of the Tower is a previously pegged crack. Thin finger jams lead to a good resting ledge. Layback up to the overlap (peg) and make some trying moves to finish.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
The pedestal corner farther left. Traverse off to the right at the top.
Grade: 5b,4c,5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 2
The first pitch is noted for its sustained finger traverse. After this, the rest is an anticlimax, but is, nevertheless, well worth doing. A girdle of the Golden Tower Area, starting from the pedestal on Dirty Corner.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb on to the pedestal and traverse right to gain the first ledge on Klondyke. Follow the horizontal break right, around the arête to the front of the Tower. Nut belay as for Golden Tower.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Traverse right to the arête and continue into Samarkand.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Go across to the Finger, move round this to gain Wedding March. Descend and make a hard move to reach a willow tree and finish up Beginner`s Buttress.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Start at the left side of the pedestal and follow the crack to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
The crack in the middle of the wall on the left is sustained.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 1
The wall left of Gilt Complex and Helical Happiness. Peg at seven metres.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Climb the flake crack up to a hanging pillar, then finish up the finger-crack on the front of the pillar.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
15 metres farther left is a short, solid buttress. Start on the left and climb the nose. Steep grass finish.