This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5b,5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start up the grassy slope and two metres right of the blocky ramp. Climb the bubbled wall taking a direct line via the faint crack system. Iron Start
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating:
Take the shallow groove on the left and small ledges to the right, to join Botch Weld Job on the small ledge at mid-height.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating:
Start as for Grond II then take a rightward rampline to a large ledge and short corner. Climb the corner and step right to join Botch Weld Job at the small ledge.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Start at the base of the blocky ramp and follow a direct line up a shallow groove into a very shallow pod near the top, then continue up a crack to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
The obvious block-filled crack two metres to the left.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 1
Climb the flaky crack two metres to the left to join Tangerine Trip at the break at eight metres. Continue directly using the crack and small ledges to the top
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 3
An excellent and strenuous climb, which stays dry even when most of the quarry is wet. From the left side of a sentry-box at the foot of the rock, follow the obvious right-slanting crack in the overhanging wall to the break, move right and climb to a bolt (frequently absent). The ascent of the scree above is now safer than in the past due to traffic, but a preplaced belay is still a wise move.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
Start as for Tangerine Trip and climb the slightly left-slanting crack.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 1
The broken groove three metres to the left provides a good climb which should improve with traffic. Gain the sloping block at the base of the groove with difficulty, then continue up the groove until it is possible to step left on to a large ledge on Mu` Azib. Step back right and finish via the deep cleft.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1995
Rating: 2
An interesting line up the rib that forms the left side of Falkland Groove, which gives good, sustained climbing in a steep position. Start on the left side of the rib and climb the short crack, then step right on to a steep slab. Continue to a ledge on the arête, then continue up the shallow groove on good holds.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1995
Rating: 2
Although the first ascensionists claimed that Mr Portillo was a little to the right of the infamous Argentinian General, even ardent socialists should enjoy this crack climb. Start at a steep jamming crack one metre farther left and climb this to a ledge. The headwall above is steeper than it looks. Climb it via a niche on the right to reach a peg, then finish up parallel cracks.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
The obvious deep chimney on the left provides high quality thrutching at the bottom (devotees of such climbing might argue that it merits three stars), then finish up the continuation chimney above, passing a peg on the right wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 1
An entertaining finish traverse left at the peg to the arête, then use a sloping hold and finish on good holds on the left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 2
This was the original route of the Falkland`s campaign at Anglezarke and is still one of the best. Start one metre left and ascend a corner crack for eight metres, then move left to an obvious notch on the arête. Climb straight up the arête using the crack on the right to finish. Incorrectly identified as Grond in the past.The next ten-metre section of rock towards the corner has been cleaned-up giving access and some interesting new routes. The wall is more stable than its blotched appearance might suggest. However, care must be taken on exit from each of the routes owing to the unstable ground above. A preplaced belay rope from above is recommended. The routes to the right of and including Le Mans Finish are of good quality and worthy of the effort required in preparing a belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
Start one metre left of the arête and climb cracks to a sentry-box and tree at mid-height, then continue direct to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 1
Two metres to the left of the arête of Superb a broken crack system converges into a direct line to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 2
Not as the name suggests. Start to the right of a small overhang at two metres. Climb the wall directly by gaining the broken crack system then taking the vague crackline which finishes in a finger-crack in the steep wall at the top.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 2
A thin line on steep and sustained technical ground, requiring some concentration. To the left of the small overhang in the base of the cliff a thin crack gives a direct line to the top. Surmount the overhang to gain the wall and thin crack. Climb the wall with the assistance of a short crack to the left and pass the bulge (crux). The crack widens in the steep wall above. Step right to finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 1
Six metres to the right of the overgrown corner a left-facing groove steps rightwards to the top of the cliff. Climb the groove and crack on its right to a sloping ledge. Use this to gain the final groove and from the top of this step right to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start as for Le Mans Finish and climb the first groove of Le Mans Finish, then continue up the wide crack above directly to the top. A good route, which unfortunately, loses its appeal at a loose block high up on the left, where it is necessary to step a long way right to finish safely.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Three metres to the right of the corner a shattered line can be climbed to a point just below a small tree. Not the best of routes owing to the unstable top section of the wall and the dense vegetation in the corner.