LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Coal Measure Crag

  • 23 - Flake Out

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    A resurrection of the old route Great Flake (which now lies almost buried under shale) which follows the obvious break behind the fallen flake.

  • 24 - The Lean Mean Fightin` Machine

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    A superb, finger-tearing line up the thin diagonal crackline veering left from the a ledge just above the start of Flake Out. Finish up Vishnu. Bolt belay, abseil descent.

  • 25 - Vishnu

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Start at the base of the deep corner and climb the flake on the right to finish up a groove. Bolt belay at the top of the groove, abseil descent.

  • 25a - Headbanger

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Takes the thin crack three metres to the right of the original start.

  • 26 - The Taciturn Boy

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the cracked left arête of the deep corner.

  • 27 - Gritstone Rain

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 1

    Start just left of the arête and climb to a small ledge at six metres. Ascend the groove above to another ledge and exit from this up a short corner. Bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 28 - Schwarzennegger Mon Amour

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 1

    The short, capped groove and wall left of Gritstone Rain. Climb to the overhang, then pull out left on to the wall (peg). Continue up the wall just left of the arête to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 29 - The Karma Mechanic

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Start at a short diagonal crack in the steep wall on the left. Climb to a thin break at six metres (peg), then move left and dyno for a large hold. Mantel on to this and climb the wall above, passing two pegs. Bolt belay on the right. Abseil descent.

  • 30 - Shibb

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    The crackline nine metres left of Gritstone Rain. Climb the crack to a small pod, then move up and go slightly rightwards to a small ledge. Finish up the flake crack above. Three-bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 31 - New Jerusalem

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    A worrying start leads to a welcome ledge, then good holds appear on the flake, to give an exhilarating, but strenuous finish. Five metres farther left a thin crackline trends slightly rightwards to the top. Climb this, passing a ledge and peg at mid-height. Two-bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 32 - If You Can`t Lick `em, Lick `em

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    The crackline left of New Jerusalem has a peg runner and bolt belay.

  • 33 - Supai Corner

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The corner which limits the main wall of Coal Measure Crag on its left.

  • 34 - Bright Angel Corner

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 2

    A much better route than initial appearances might suggest. Climb the next vague corner groove, two metres farther left, using the cracks in the left wall. Bolt belay on left. Abseil descent.

  • 35 - Anasazi Arête

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    From the top of the scree slope go up and right to the blunt arête, then continue on large holds to a ledge at eight metres. Climb the left-hand side of the arête (crux) to a bolt belay just below the top. Bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 36 - Son of Dicktrot

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    The narrow wall and thin crack just left of Anasazi Arête, to the bolt belay of that route. Abseil descent.

  • 37 - Zoroaster

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climb the corner formed by two flakes, just to the right of an obvious bush.

  • 38 - Kelly`s `i`

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    Gain and climb the jamming crack to the right of the arête and just above a bush.

  • 39 - The Changeing

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the protruding flake just left of the obvious bush. A hanging rope is essential for a belay. Abseil descent.

  • 40 - Thirsty Work

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Start just left of the corner and climb the wall on small ledges to gain the crackline at mid-height. Continue directly to the top. (No belay.)

  • 41 - Whiter Shade of Shale

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    The left-hand crack in the back of the square recess. Abseil descent from the pedestal.

  • 42 - Coal Measure Climb

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

    Previously incorrectly known as Tapeats. Climb the left side of the left arête of the square recess via small ledges and cracks. Abseil descent from the top of the pedestal.Low Wall. This the short wall between Coal Measure Crag and Beginner`s Buttress.