LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Brick Buttress

  • 1 - Hookworm

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The left side of the wall is marked by a detached pedestal with an old drill embedded at its base. The route takes this crack.

  • 2 - Strangle

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    One and a half metres right. The series of irregular cracks.

  • 3 - Tangle

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    On the right there is an obvious overlap at three metres. Mantel over this, then continue up the wall above.

  • 4 - Wangle

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The obvious wide crack.

  • 5 - Criminal Neglect

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    An interesting traverse of the buttress. Climb Wangle until the crack widens, then traverse the thin horizontal crack until it is possible to finish up Arête-Toi.

  • 6 - Dangle

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Just to the left of the lowest point on the wall is a crack with a triangular hole below the break. Climb to the break, then go up the thin crack system above.

  • 7 - Mangle

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Starting at the lowest point on the wall, climb a very thin crack to the break, then continue parallel to Dangle up indefinite cracks.

  • 8 - Gaffer

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the right at twin cracks, then climb the crack/groove above.

  • 9 - Marie, Marie

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 2

    Fine climbing up the thin crack just left of the arête (peg).

  • 10 - Arête-Toi

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The arête direct (peg).

  • 11 - Weezy Wonk

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start just right of Arête-Toi, and follow stepped ledges to the top.

  • 12 - Scrabble

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Four metres right of the arête is a groove. Climb the right edge of this.

  • 13 - Blinkers

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 1

    The centre of the wall just to the right, finishing over the bulge on hidden holds.

  • 14 - Old Granny Glass

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    The thin crack just to the right.

  • 15 - The Evil Fencepost

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Start directly below a triangular overhang at the top of the crag and climb the wall, finishing to the left of the top overhang.

  • 16 - Withnell Arête

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start slightly right and at a lower level, immediately below a stepped arête at the left side of a smooth wall. Climb the wall directly to the arête, then finish easily.

  • 17 - Factory Gate

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Start farther right at a higher level and climb the wall on its left past a finger-slot and finish through a small overlap.

  • 18 - The Factory Syndicate

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the wall, crossing the left-hand end of a ledge.

  • 19 - Lock Out

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start just to the right and climb a thin crack and the overhang above.

  • 20 - Exercise One

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Start up the corner and hand-traverse left across the break and ledge to finish up Withnell Arête.

  • - There is also a low-level traverse from The Factory Syndicate back to the first route with some 5b climbing.

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating: