LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

South Pole Buttress

  • 50 - Fuchs up the Pole

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    From a ledge at the right side of the buttress, use a sloping ledge to gain then climb the shallow, right-facing groove in the leaning wall.

  • 51 - Weddell

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    The chimney on the left.

  • 52 - Mount Vinson

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Start at a line of hanging flakes just over one metre left of the unclimbed groove. Power up the flakes passing several overlaps to the crux just under the top (sky hook runner).

  • 53 - Meridian

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The conspicuous, steep crack three metres to the left is climbed to a difficult finish.

  • 54 - Antarctic ArĂȘte

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Start up the left side of the jutting rib and finish up the corner on the left, as for Oates.

  • 55 - Oates

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Climb the corner on the left.

  • 56 - Death Before Dishonour

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    This route has not yet been re-ascended since the bottom was re-excavated. Climb Amundsen for three metres, then step right and climb the wall above by a thin crack.

  • 57 - Amundsen

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 1

    The classic jamming crack on the left. A typical strenuous gritstone crack, which at no point seems to be the right width.

  • 58 - Scott

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    The shallow groove on the left.