LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Waiting Room Area

  • 20 - Twin Spikes

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1955
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ledges on the left side of an easy-angled corner to a ledge on the left, then climb up past the remaining quarry spike and traverse left to The Waiting Room.

  • 21 - Groove and Ledge

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1958-61)
    Rating: 0

    The groove on the left.

  • 22 - Blunt Arête

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1961-63)
    Rating: 0

    The blunt arête between Groove and Ledge and Slanting Crack, with a long reach to finish.

  • 23 - Slanting Crack

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1956
    Rating: 1

    The crack which goes diagonally left across the orange wall on the left. At the overlap step right and make an awkward mantel into The Waiting Room.

  • 24 - Greg Rimmer: The Motion Picture

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1983-86)
    Rating: 1

    Start as for Slanting Crack and follow the continuation flake to the break, traverse left to a hanging groove. Up this to a ledge, move left and up to The Pasture.

  • 25 - Dangler, The

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1956/1977/1979)
    Rating: 2

    An old A3 aid route, which requires very gymnastic contortions to surmount some of the roofs. From The Waiting Room climb the short corner which starts below a roof with an obvious circular crack, surmount this (crux) and up to a large roof, which is avoided by a traverse to the left. Finish up a short wall to reach The Pasture.

  • 26 - Sheer Heart Attack

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1967/1977)
    Rating: 1

    From the left side of The Waiting Room, make a move round the arête to a good hold (peg), then climb the arête to a small ledge. Continue up the flake crack above. then make a difficult mantelshelf onto the horizontal break, then step right and up another crack to The Pasture