This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Late 60s/1986)
Rating: 2
A dastardly solution to this section of wall. Start in the centre of the wall on the left. Climb to an overlap (bolt), then move right and up a short crack to a horizontal break. Ascend the wall above to a peg, step left and finish direct.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start as for The Luddite but at the bolt gain the short break up and to the left, then go up to a second break. Move right to a very thin diagonal crack and follow this to an overlap and a peg – junction with The Excitable Boy. Traverse left to a crack and finish up this.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1975/1984)
Rating: 2
This previously mediocre peg route (Candlemass) now gives fine free climbing, Start in the corner on the left. Climb this (bold) to a ledge. Step right to gain the main crack and follow this to an overlap and a peg. Make some baffling moves on to a small ledge then make a long reach to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Climb the arête just left of The Excitable Boy for a few moves then pull round into an easy-angled groove. Climb this to a ledge and move up to a block. Pass this on its left to gain a ledge and finish up the short break behind.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
Rating:
From the groove on the parent route, climb the obvious crack above, and finish as for Hoghton Weaver.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Start at a lower level, three metres right of an overhung corner. Climb a short crack and the groove above, until it is possible to ascend the shallow corner to a ledge on the right. Finish easily.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 1
From the first ledge on The Motorway gain a higher ledge on the right, then a triangular niche. Move up, then go diagonally right to a shallow corner and up to a large ledge on the right. Traverse back across the face to some obvious large holds and an easier finish. Poorly protected.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
From the triangular niche on Book of Fate continue up the shallow corner to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Probably the best easy way down from most of the routes, and because of this the route is marked with red paint. Start six metres left of the overhung corner and follow a sloping ledge left to a large ledge (The Hard Shoulder). Scramble up to another ledge complex (The Central Reservation), then continue left across this to reach the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
Starting two metres left, gain the ledge above and move to the The Hard Shoulder. From the right of this follow small holds to the ledge above, then continue past two ledges to a vertical crack. From the base of this go diagonally right for four metres until the top can be reached easily.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The left wall of the bay ends at a long arête, which starts at a much lower level. Follow this to the top (The Hard Shoulder), then go up slightly and finish easily up the final blunt arête to reach Lookout Point. r.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The gully bounding Lookout Ridge on its left. Finish as for that route.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The series of short corners on the left of Lookout Gully to The Hard Shoulder
Grade: 4a,4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Where Lookout Gully and Trunk Road split there is a vertical crack. Follow this to a large ledge, then continue up the groove behind, which is best entered from the left (peg – not in place). Belay on The Central Reservation.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
The wall behind, to reach Lookout Point.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Start three metres left of Malkin Tower at a lower level. Climb the crack (awkward to start) to a large sloping ledge, then go up the short wall behind to easier ground, finishing up the groove above to The Central Reservation.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1972/1984)
Rating: 1
Takes the break through the large overhang which stretches across the top of the quarry at the Blackburn end. From the corner on the left, climb a weakness two metres right until it is possible to move back to the corner at a drill hole (spike). Move up this, then move right and up to the obvious break which splits the overhang. Surmount the overhang (peg) to gain the hanging corner above. Step left to a good pocket and continue to a small niche. Finish straight up. Variations on the bottom section are possible on the right.
Grade: 5a,4c | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 2
Despite first appearances, this is an excellent route, especially if the top slab is clean.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the cracks just left of the corner to a peg at nine metres, then step left to gain a line of flakes leading diagonally right to a large niche. Nut belay. It is possible to start this pitch by starting up Scoop and Wall, to gain the flakes on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb to the overhang, then traverse left to an arête. Step up to a ledge then from this move up on small holds to a wide crack on the right. Either finish straight up, or, keeping low, move across to a small niche and make a rising traverse right to finish at the top of the hanging corner of Chattox.
Grade: 4a,4b | First Ascent: -1963
Rating: 0
Start at the far end of the quarry, 10 metres right of an obvious easy way up the short end wall.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the crack to a small ledge. From the left of this gain the massive ledge and tree belay.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the crack in the corner until it is possible to traverse right to the arête on a sloping ledge. Move up to a ledge, then finish up a short slab.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Start at Scoop and Wall pitch two and follow it to the sloping ledge, then continue straight up over a large block, step left and finish direct.
Grade: –,4a | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
The crack three metres to the left.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
The flake crack behind the tree leads to a ledge on the left. Gain the next ledge, then finish easily up the arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Start from the large belay ledge of Suspended Animation and climb the vertical razor-edged arête just to the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
Set back from Wilkinson`s Sword Edge is a large overhang. Climb the V-groove to the overhang, then step right and climb the wide crack which splits it.