This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: (1986-87)
Rating: 0
Keep to the right side of the first buttress.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Ascend the centre of the buttress past several drill marks, to a ledge. Then go right to finish.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The right corner of the next shallow bay, finish to the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the centre of the bay, passing between the overhangs.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the overhang which Intra avoids, swing round the overhang on its left, then finish easily.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the left side of the bay to the overhang at four metres, then traverse left and follow a line of boreholes to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the Central Buttress directly, starting just right of a sapling.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
To the left and at a higher level is a steep slab. Climb this just right of the corner, via a pocket.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The corner crack, with an awkward pull out left at the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
From the base of Layback move up left and climb the corner, borehole runner.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1987
Rating: 0
Below and left of the previous route is a butterfly overhang. Starting up a short rib climb the overhang by a short hanging groove, then the arête above.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
Start just left. Climb a flaky wall and the corners above.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
From behind some large blocks on the ground climb up to a ledge (or gain the ledge by the ramp on the left, better). Gain the top of a small block above the ledge, then traverse right to a small ledge and an easy finish.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the corner groove where the ground level drops, at the overhang pull out right, then finish straight up the steep ramp.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Climb the centre of the wall on the left of the corner groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Climb the arête on its left to a sloping ledge, then finish up the groove above.
Grade: A2 | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
The obvious line of ancient bolts across the Great Overhang, finishing with an awkward free move.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
On the left the roof narrows considerably above a small yellow promontory. Climb through the roof at this point (Friends) and continue up the short left-slanting corner above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1968/1982)
Rating: 2
Also known previously as Bullworker. Sustained climbing up an old peg route, which requires strong fingers. If the peg near the top is missing, it is very tiring to arrange alternative protection. Start six metres farther left and climb a slabby rib to the overlap. Start the steep peg crack above and follow it to the top.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
From Toreador, move left across wall to a bolt, then make long reaches to gain the arête (niche and undercut). RPs protect the final moves.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
Left again is a steep rib leading to a break in the overhang. Start left of the rib and climb up through the break, then step left and climb a slab.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
Climb through the overhang as for Main Break, but traverse left above the roof for six metres. Either step up and swing left across a bottomless groove, or move down to cross the groove (or maybe jump across it?). Continue along, crossing a V-groove then climb a short arête and broken rock to finish. Poor protection.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Farther left the overhang is broken by a hanging groove. Climb a rib to the overhang, then from a good hold above, make a long reach rightwards to enter the groove. Climb it then exit left to a ledge and finish easily above.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Follow Chronometer to the good hold but make a committing swing leftwards on to a jutting block. Make an impressive mantel on to this and finish easily. Excellent protection is available but it needs a little thought.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Where the large overhang ends is an undercut slab with a sycamore beneath its left side. Step from a boulder into the corner then gain the rib on the right and so to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
From the boulder at the start of Jimmy Sideways climb a crack in the centre of the slab until it is possible to traverse rightwards into the corner. Finish on the right.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Four metres left of the sycamore is a short wall. Start at the left side of this and step up, then move right across the wall to a finish up the right side.