This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The short easy-angled slab at the right-hand end of the rocks.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
Start two metres left of the right edge of the crag. Ascend to a square notch on the arête and continue up this on its right.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
From Druid`s Corner make a rising traverse past a small flake to the niche in the centre of the wall, traverse right to the arête and finish up this.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1961
Rating: 3
A classic test-piece on natural gritstone. Gain the niche in the centre of the wall from directly below, and climb over the overhang above via a crack. Move up rightwards to a slight depression in the upper wall. Reach up for a hidden hold and so the top; superb.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
Immediately to the left an overhang at two metres guards a prominent scoop (The Altar). Start up a short corner and turn the overhang on its right then step back left on to The Altar. Traverse left to a ledge and climb up into the recess above (The Crow`s Nest). Using the block above (The Coffin) as a right foothold, climb the short wall above.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
Start directly below the centre of the overhang and make a precarious mantel on to The Altar. Climb straight up and over the second overhang, finishing up the rippled wall. A delicate yet strenuous route.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1951)
Rating: 2
Classic gristsone climbing with a gymnastic start and an exposed finish. Climb the nose which forms the left edge of the buttress, and go up to The Coffin. Hand-traverse this to a thin crack in the wall above then finish up this.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:
An entertaining rightwards traverse from the corner on the right-hand side of The Altar, keeping below the roof until a pull out can be made on the initial nose of Pagan`s Direct.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The narrow wrinkled wall on the left-hand side of the buttress.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The block-filled cleft in the corner.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
Start two metres left and follow a more-or-less direct line up the wall, stepping on to a large flake, to a poor finish.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
Ascend the corner above the prominent rock column, gain a flat triangular ledge and climb leftwards to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The sharp-edged crack two metres left leads to a good ledge then the short wall above, or climb diagonally rightwards from the ledge at VD.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
Rating: 0
The small triangular overhang just left is climbed directly to the good ledge, finishing up the wall just to the right of the corner crack.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
The thin crack left of the overhang leads to a good ledge, then the steep corner crack to finish.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
Polished holds up the wall on the left lead to a difficult mantel at four metres. Step left and follow the crack which bounds the overhang on its left.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Follow The Mantelshelf to its namesake, then go carefully over the overhang above, the stability of which gives some climbers great cause for concern.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
The wide block-filled crack leads to the tree.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
Rating: 0
From four metres up Oak Tree Chimney, gain the good ledge on the left then leave the left end of this ledge via a ridge.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The steep slab and wall on the left. Numerous variations are possible, the best being on the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The chimney behind the projecting leaf of The Slab.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The narrow buttress on the left, is taken directly.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
The corner crack, exiting on the right at the constriction. slabby wall. Climb it by its centre, passing through the Bull`s Horns (a gap in the overlap which splits the wall at half-height) and the steep wall above to a recess below the top overhang. Finish left or right through this.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
Just to the left is a clean slabby wall. Climb it by its centre, passing through the Bull`s Horns (a gap in the overlap which splits the wall at half-height) and the steep wall above to a recess below the top overhang. Finish left or right through this.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The polished nose on the left is gained with difficulty, then good holds lead more easily to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The thin crack in the wall which forms the left edge of The Snout.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
Rating: 0
Start in the short V-Groove just to the left. Pull over rightwards onto a small ledge and continue steeply to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1951)
Rating: 0
The corner just to the left, finishing up the right branch.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The block-filled left branch.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1951)
Rating: 0
Climb the steep slab on the left diagonally rightwards into Western Chimney.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
A more direct line up the slab.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
The thin corner crack on the right of the overhang, with surprisingly awkward moves through the bulges.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Early 1960s)
Rating: 0
Climbs directly over the overhang on sloping holds.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 1
The shallow hanging groove on the left side of the overhang.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The face climb just to the left, passing an overlap at half-height.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The prominent hand-jam crack on the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The rib on the left has a difficult finish on sloping holds.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The obvious deep cleft.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The short wall leads to a broad ledge, then go up the wall just left of the chimney passing a small ledge (the West Mantelshelf).
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
Start just right of the left arête of the crag and climb diagonally right to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
From the start of West Buttress – Ordinary, take a direct line to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
Rating: 0
The bulging arête with an undercut start is climbed on the right.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 0
The short, steep end wall of the crag.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1937)
Rating: 2
There are numerous variations to this traverse, and belays are possible at many points. Start from the notch on Druid`s Corner and traverse the wall past the niche, to the top of the nose. Move round into Corner Chimney then make an ascending traverse to the triangular ledge on Column Climb. Go along to Overhang Crack and climb down a couple of moves to gain the ledge of The Mantelshelf on the left. Cross to Tyro`s Delight and cross Central Wall at roughly the same level, step down to the ledge on Zig Zag and follow this to West Chimney. Move up then traverse left across to the top of Split Block Overhang. Descend to a narrow ledge and go round the rib into Easy Chimney. Gain the ledge on West Mantelshelf and descend obliquely left until an easy line leads round the arête, crossing West Face to finish.